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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 




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"BEATTY'S TOUR IN EUROPE," 



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OR 



"EUROPE AS I SAW IT," 



BY 



Daniel F. Beatty 



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No.J.\ I 1* ■ * 



DANrKJ,^ BEATTY, Publisher, 

Corner Kail Rood- Avenue and Beatty Street, 

Washington, New Jersey, United States of America. 



1 8 80 . 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in year 1880, by 

DANIEL F. BEATTY 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



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THE FOLLOWING PAGES 




Commemorative of my recent trip' 'In Foreign Lands," 




g^« gUspjecifnUg g^bkattb to 




MY FRIENDS. 













PREFACE 



djIfTT has always been my desire to view the 
2a jll scenes celebrated for their antiquity and re- 
vP[)ll.nown, to gaze upon the sepulchres of Kings, 
the crumbling ruins of ancient palaces, to 
breath, amid the towering summit of the Alps, 
the air where majestic sublimity reigns supreme ; 
ordeep in subterranean caverns of the earth, look 
upon the sarcophagus of Prophets, Priests and 
Kings, and, approaching, read hieroglyphics that 
still withstand the shock of time. 

All these mighty antiquities of ancient renown 
lay enshrined in traditions whose origin is lost 
in the dust of centuries. To me, the iron finger 
of time traces, amid the ashes and debris of ages, 
lessons written in an imperishable language : 

"Day unto day uttereth speech 
And night unto night showeth forth knowledge." 

Lessons which all the nations of the earth can 
read, teaching mankind the immutability of our 
great Creator, and immortality of the soul. 

" For though Heaven and Earth pass away, 
The word of the Lord endureth forever." 

To you, dear friends, I trust they may awaken 
the same emotions, and to whom Ipresent these 
pages as a slight memento of my regard and 
esteem. 



" BEATTT'S TOUR IN EUROPE," 



IN 



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OR 



" EUROPE AS I SAW IT," 

BY 

DANIEL F. BEATTY. 




HE eastern hills tinged with amber 
and gold, foretold the day would be 
bright and glorious. The waking 
birds sung out their sweetest carol- 
ings; the purling brook — " the incense 
breathing morn," — all nature itself 
seemed to join in one general anthem of praise 
to God for the new born day — the one I had 
chosen for my long contemplated trip to Europe. 
Friday, August 2d, 1878, will long be remem- 
bered and cherished as commemorative of the 
most eventful period of my life; not so much 
from the mere fact of my departure for Europe, 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



as from the warm and hearty ' ' send off " I ex 
perienced from the good citizens of Washington, 
New Jersey. 

As the hour approached, the bustle and com- 
motion seemed to intensify. Brilliant equipages, 
four in hand, drew up, one after another in front 




BEATTY BUILDING. 

of the Beatty Building, betokening, unbeknown 
to me, a preconcerted and well organized plan of 
action. Accompanied by my dear father and 
brother, my noble band of clerks, and a goodly 
representation of the citizens of Washington, 
New Jersey, I was soon whirled down to the 
depot — flags flying, children clapping their 
hands in childish glee, dogs barking — even the 
humble, dusty road-side flowers seemed to nod 
and join in' the general acclamation of delight as 
we rolled by; but railroad time being no re- 
specter of persons, the long drawn whistle and 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 



the rumbling of the approaching train abruptly 
brought our festival to a close, and amid the 
hearty congratulations of a score of voices, broken 
exclamations, and hurried adieus, the express 
train glided in among us, and ushered into one 
of Pullman's palace cars innundated with floral 
offerings and wreaths, and fairly walking on a 
bed of roses, I take the last long lingering look 
of the village spire, as it glitters and shimmers 
in the noontide sun — the gabled roofs of the' 
distant town peeping here and there from out the 
rich green foliage — the crowd of smiling faces — 
shouts of merry laughter, greetings and huzzas, 
in the midst of which my little brother stands, 
crowding back the tears that spite of all will 
flow, as the thought of the tempestuous sea, dim 
forebodings of danger and the possibility of my 
never returning loom up in his young and im- 
aginative mind — all these form a confused 
picture photographed upon my memory, which 
can never be forgotton. Like a pleasant dream, 
faces, voices, all fade away, as off we go, past field 
and meadow, to the great Metropolis — the modern 
Babylon of America — where we arrived at 4 P. M. 




FIFTH AVENUE HOTEL, NEW YORK. 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'3 



and were driven to one of the leading hotels, my 
thoughts busy with the pleasurable incidents of 
the day, which ever and anon were broken into 
by the arrival of fresh friends to greet me, offer- 
ing their parting congratulations of a speedy 
voyage and safe passage across the briny deep. 

Saturday, August 3d, was a busy day, what 
with looking after my financial affairs, the pur- 
chasing of Bills of Exchange from the leading 
Bankers of the city, the procuring of letters 
of* credit, and the general detail of business 
inseparable from a contemplated trip across the 
ocean, filled every minute of my time, while the 
reception of numerous friends in the evening, 
rounded up another day of excitement. 

The steamer on which I was to take my depar- 
ture was to have sailed Thursday, August 1st, 
but having broken her shaft, she was delayed 
until Sunday. 

Card after card introduced new friends and 
visitors, who, ushered into the spacious parlors of 
the hotel, indicated a warmth of hospitality which 
was truly gratifying to me in the extreme. 

Night steals in — the last friend has departed, 
and lam left in solemn communion with my own 
thoughts ; they wander back to the home of my 
childhood ; again I see my friends of yore ; — 
again I hear the dear familiar voices of long ago, 
and thoughts steal unbidden in my mind — what 
if I should never return — once on the deep blue 
rolling sea, with nothing but a few planks, as it 
were, nailed together, between my soul and eter- 
nity. Hidden and unseen dangers lay across my 
pathway, and as I peer into the shadowy land of 
the past, slumber gently shuts the door of fancy 
and bears me on its downy pinions to the land of 
sweet oblivion. Greatly refreshed I rose to greet 
the welcome Sabbath morn — sweet harbinger of 
rest — the best day to me of all the week — in 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 



whose sacred hours the mind can hold sweet com- 
munion with the giver of every good and perfect 
gift. The city bells ring out their joyous peals, 
but to me they sound not like those sweet Sab- 
bath bells far beyond the hills — the bells that 
call the morning worhippers to prayer and song, 
ringing out upon the morning air, soft and clear, 
calling to each and all in a language of its own. 
But the hour approaches for my departure ; all is 
again confusion, the carriage drives up to the 
door of the hotel and we find ourselves rattling 
down Broadway four in hand at a lively pace. 
Arriving at the pier we descry one of those levia- 
thans of the deep, the city of , of the . 

As we roll down the wharf, the usual motley 
crowd greet our eyes, gathered together seem- 
ingly from all the quarters of the earth, crowd- 
ing and jostling, jeering and chaffing among each 
other. 

At length I found myself upon the deck of the 
steamer, surrounded by judges, reporters of the 
press, sailors and passengers, each intent upon 
the business of the hour, but all this babel and 
confusion was soon brought to a hasty termina- 
tion, when the stentorian tones of the officer cried 
" all aboard." 

Placed in a novel position and totally unused to 
nautical life, it may be reasonably concluded that 
I had many things to learn. The last premonitory 
admonitions were given — friends greeted friends 
for the last time — many weeping eyes, half 
choked sobs, exclamations of cheer, of courage 
and of sympathy, and we slowly backed from 
the crowded pier out into the stream, followed 
by the little tug boat my friends had chartered 
for the occasion to see us down the harbor and 
safely out to sea. 

Boom ! went our signal gun, the dying echoes 
reverberating along the Jersey shore, whose dim 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



blue outlines stretched far away along the west- 
ern sky. 

The curling smoke from Fort Hamilton and 
the answering signal gun a moment after broke 
on our ears, as we glided stately down the bay, 
down towards the Narrows. 

Thoughts of home, father, brothers, friends, 
all come trooping up into the memory, as if to 
take a last farewell ; fainter and fainter the Jer- 
sey shore now recedes from our sight, and we 
pass the Narrows, we transfer our pilot to the' 
little tug boat containing my brother and hosts 
of friends who had chartered it for the special 
occasion of seeing me down the Bay, and the 
reporters of the press jotting down the very latest 
items of interest, we part company, the heavy 
hawsers are swung off, and we slowly divide the 
distance between us, wider and wider, amid the 
waving of handkerchiefs, and the shouts of our 
companions and friends, which grows fainter and 
fainter as they drift astern of us, while I stand 
watching them long and steadfastly until in 
the distance it appears as a speck upon the 
waters far away, and now we stand boldly out to 
sea. 

Onward we press, a wide expanse of waters 
before us, and land fast fading from our view. 
The bell announces our first meal on board the 
steamer, the sea is calm and serene as we glide 
through the deep blue waters. 

Our eye scans the horizon and from all sides I 
see naught but the blue sky and the mighty ex- 
panse of waters, and the deep sea swell slowly 
and regularly rocks our steamer as its prow 
pierces the waves, shooting onward with the irre- 
sistable power of steam, and leaving behind a 
long narrow furrow of foam that marks our 
pathway. Occasionally a sea gull flaps its tired 
wings as though weary in finding a resting place, 



TOUP. IN FOREIGN LANDS. 



and is lost to view iu the hazy distance. I de- 
scend to the saloon below, my appetite sharpened, 
and feeling 1 invigorated by the fresh sea air, need 
I say that I done full justice to the occasion, un- 
attended by the slightest disposition to sea sick- 
ness. 

Sunday at sea — What a complete change from 
the preceding Sabbath ; all is bustle and excite- 
ment, people hurrying to and fro intent upon 
their own enjoyment ; no apparently religious 
veneration for God's holy day, but each left to the 
dictates of his conscience. At 9 p.m., a few well 
selected voices on the upper deck favor us with 
some choice selections, while the piano below re- 
sounds to the mirth and revelry of another happy 
party in the saloon below. 

As for myself I stand alone, unobserved and 
yet observing, anon listening to the chorus of 
happy voices, and again peering out into the 
darkness that broods over the deep unfathom- 
able waters before us, recognizing in its unpen- 
etrable depths, the resemblance to that dark un- 
fathomable Eternity towards which we are so 
silently yet surely approaching. Half-past ten 
arriving I retire to my berth. 

Monday, August 5th. — I awoke at 6.30 quite 
sea sick, but with a full determination to over- 
come it if possible. I abstained from any break- 
fast, and proceeded on deck to the open air, con- 
scious of an inward squirmishness that plainly 
indicated a rebellion was nigh. I returned to 
the rooms below, endeavored to eat, but could 
only manage part of an egg. 

Repairing to the saloon I endeavored to divert 
my mind from my anticipated sea sickness — 
played on the piano and made tho acquaintance 

of Dr. ■ ! 2 p.m. we 

descried a st earner bound for New York, north of 
us, and some 50 miles away. 7.45 p.m. saw a 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



sailing vessel south of us, about a quarter of a 
mile away. Not a light could be seen on her, 
the moon shone down in silent grandeur upon 
the waves, reflected back in a thousand shimmer- 
ing lights dancing in the moon beams, and 
stretching far away upon the dark blue waters 
of the rolling sea; one is involuntarily compelled 
to ask the Athiest — who says there is no God ? 

Tuesday, August Gth. — I changed my berth 
from the upper to the lower tier, as I could com- 
mand a better view of old mother ocean. The 
weather continues warm, but I am assured that 
it will be cold enough in a few days, as we near 
the coast of Newfoundland. 

In changing my berth I form new acquaint- 
ances in Rev. J. G. New 

York, who occupies the lower birth right oppo- 
site, and Rev. J. A. 

New Jersey, the upper berth. 

10.30 A.M. I saw a number of porpoises dis- 
porting in the sun, their round shining backs 
glittering every now and then as they came up 
to the surface and rolled playfully about. The 
weather continued fair, with a good flowing sea. 

Wednesday, August 7th, we find ourselves 
considerably nearer the coast of Newfoundland, 
while the extreme cold brought overcoats in 
great demand. A heavy sea is running, and 
standing on deck I find myself wet through and 
through by a heavy sea. Very few are on deck, 
and nearly all sick. Clouds gather portentiously, 
indicating a coming storm. 

We come suddenly to a stop — the ponderous 
machinery is motionless — an excited crowd 
gather around inquiring the reason why. Oh ! 
only a screw loose, and in five minutes we are 
again on our way. f 

Thursday, August 8th. — The storm that I had 
predicted had passed over us during the night, 



and the morning sun peeping through one of the 




OUR OCEAN STEAMER AT SEA. 

port-holes of the steamer seemed to wink and 
blink at me with a sort of jovial smile, as much 
as to say, "good morning, Mr. Beatty, good 
morning." 

Friday, August 9th. — As soon as the morning 
broke, and after performing my morning abula- 
tions, I betook myself to the deck to get the fresh 
air, and see how old mother ocean looked, arrayed 
in her vesture of deep blue. A clear but heavy 
sea. Concert to-night and I find my name an- 
nounced on the bill to sing. 

At 3 P.M. our attention was directed to the 
sporting of a huge whale in our wake. The sky, 
overclouded, gave every indication of rain, which 
at 6 p.m. was abundantly verified, making a wet 
night of it. The following morning, however, 
broke clear and beautiful . Nothing of any special 
interest occurred during the day worthy of 
special mention. The usual Saturday night con- 
cert, attended with speeches, jokes, and conun- 
drums until the night was far spent. 

Sunday, August 11th, was another fine day. 
The sun rose far away to the east, amid a molten 



1 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



sea of amber and gold, and the myriad waves 
tipped with their glittering sheen, sparkled and 
danced in their splendor, leaving a long train of 
light as far as the eye could reach. A strong 
north-west wind was blowing, and we were 
making most excellent time. 

My soul, responsive to the silent prayer within 
me, praised God for such a bright and glorious 
Sabbath at sea. 

How different this Sunday from the one pre- 
ceding it, when all was revelry — now how 
changed, a reverential silence seemed to prevail 
and cast its hallowed influence upon all. 

Several gentlemen insisted that I should aid in 
the devotional song to night, reinforced by a 
bevy of young ladies, who will not take no for 
answer. 

I feel an inward satisfaction at an opportunity 
of being once again privileged to join my voice 
in the happy songs of Zion, and of praising God 
for His watchful care of me over land and sea. 
My room mate, Rev. Van Slyke of New York, 
favored us with a sermon, after which we dis- 
persed to our several quarters with the usual 
good night salutations. 

Monday, August 12th, we found the steamer 
rolling more than ever before, pitching up and 
down, tossed like a feather in the wind, amid 
mountain billows capped with white and glitter- 
ng foam. 

My soul was filled with deep humility as, im- 
pressed with the omnipotence and infinitude of 
a Great Creator, I gazed upon the solemn gran- 
deur of the scene before me. Through wind and 
storm, sunshine and rain, wherever I might be, 
my soul felt exultant that I could recognize the 
power of the Lord God Omnipotent, and rejoiced 
that even terrible as His Majesty, I could still 
approach Him as my Father. 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 1 1 



We were now fast nearing the Northern Coast 
of Ireland; in a few hours it was confidently 
anticipated land might be sighted. Glancing 
over my record I find that we had travelled 313 
miles on our first day out, the same on the 2d 
day, 297 miles on the 3d day, 320 for the 4th, 328 
on the 5th, 346 on the 6th, 341 on the 7th, and 
334 on the 8th, up to 12 o'clock noon. 

I had passed through varied vicissitudes, 
varieties of scenes on ship hoard, and had got 
quite used to my sea legs. 

I had in this brief period passed through scenes 
varied and multiform in their character, some 
of them occupying but a few brief moments, 
yet how they live forever after, engraved indeli- 
bly upon the heart, which no touch of time can 
wholly eradicate, but are treasured in the r Alls 
of memory to be recalled only in after years. 

At 8 p.m. the cheerful intelligence was an- 
nounced that land was in sight, and a happier 
man could not be found on board than your 
humble servant. Never in the whole course of 
my life did I experience so much satisfaction at 
the prospect of once more placing my feet on 
terra firma, while a general clapping of hands, 
shouts of laughter and boisterous manifestations 
of general delight was equally participated in by 
one and all. 

Tuesday, August 13, was the eventful day 
which commemorated my advent on to British 
soil. At 5.20 P.M. such of the passengers as had 
decided to put off at Queenstown had gathered 
their luggage, among which crowd I found my- 
self, and was right glad to transfer my body 
corporal and worldly effects from the steamer to 
the little tug that lay steaming along side, which 
done away we went up the bay to the City of 
Queenstown. 

The city, as I land, wears to me an ancient 



1 2 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



aspect, and everything strikes me as so entirely 
different ; the transition also, from *' a life on the 
ocean wave" to that experienced on dry land, 
fills me with a singular sensa'tion, difficult to ex- 
press, but none the less apparent to me. Here I 
am a stranger in a strange land — while the very 
houses, railroad cars, quays — all strike me with 
an odd and peculiar look. 

The city of Queenstown, built on the side of a 
hill, presents a commanding aspect, while the 
harbor is one of the finest in the United King- 
dom ; the entrance is well protected by forts on 
either side of the channel. 

Among the passengers disembarking I noticed 
several Frenchmen, who were loaded down with 
trunks, bundles and no end of luggage. The eldest 
of the group, of fine commanding appearance, 
seemed annoyed at the number of packages, and 
proceeded summarily to dispose of a number of 
empty bandboxes by throwing them overboard. 

At my elbow stood Pat with all his worldly 
possessions tied to a stick and slung over his 
shoulder. He stood watching them for some time 
and then broke out — 

" Fhat a profiigicy of them air furreners to be 
maken, when money's the poor old sowl would be 
glad o'the likes." 

"Well why don't you ask him?" replied I ; 
"there I added, see he is going to dispose of that 
empty old trunk in the same way. Go for him 
Pat," said I. 

A merry twinkle played in Pat's eye and he 
gave me such a quizzical look as he retorted — 

" Trunk is it, — bedad and fhat the divil would 
I be doin' wid a thrunk — and me go naked ? 

From which I came to the conclusion that Pat's 
wardrobe was all on his back, and so enjoying his 
dry wit, I passed on. 

Upon landing I found myself very hungry and 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 1 3 



tired from loss of sleep, not having gone to bed 
all night, so anxious was I to set my foot on dry- 
land. 

It is now 6:15 a. m., which, compared to our 
New York time, would be equal to 1:45 A. M., 
which struck me as being so singular, that I could 
hardly realize it. 

The first sight of a railroad car in Europe 
greets my eyes ; built in a different style from 
those in America, they strike me as very odd and 
queer looking, appearing clumsy in their build, 
and do not possess the elegance of those of 
American manufacture. 

After an half hour's ride of some 12 miles, I 
reached the city of Cork, and putting up at the 




IMPERIAL HOTEL, CORK, IRELAND. 

Imperial Hotel, I ate a hearty breakfast, and loos- 
ing no time proceeded at once to visit my first 
object of interest — Blarney Castle. 

The ruins consist of a dungeon some 120 feet 
high, strong and impregnable. Descending to the 
basement from the outside weareledinto a num- 
ber of curious caves and natural excavations. At 
the north angle of the Castle, and some 20 feet 
below the summit, we find the celebrated Blarney 
stone, which is said to endow the person who 



14 



DANIEL F. BEATTrS 



kisses it with sucli persuasive powers, that no 
lady can resist liis eloquence. 




KISSING THE BLABNEY STONE. 

There is a stone there, whoever kisses, 
Oh ! he never misses to grow eloquint, 
'Tis he may clamber to a lady's chamber, 
Or become amimber of sweet Parliamint; 
A clever spouter he'll shure turn out, or 
An out-an-outer to be let aione, 
Don't hope to hinder him, or to bewilder him 
Shure he's a pilgrim from the Blarney Stone. 

It is difficult to trace the source from whence 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 



15 



the stone derived its great reputation, but certain 
it is that the word " Blarney " is world-wide. 

At this day it is more general to observe the 
custom without stooping to the stone, and our 
artist says : 




HE'S GOD*' TO KISS THE BA'AL BLABNKT STOFE. 

With quare sinsashuns and palpitashuns, 
A kiss I'll venture here, mavrone, 
'Tis swater Blarney, good Father Mahony, 
Kissin' the girls than that dirty stone. 



1 6 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



Bowing deferentially however to the mandates 
of custom, I kiss the stone, and proceed on my 
more interesting journey, by riding through the 
city of Cork on an Irish jaunting car. At 2:45 
p. M. , I left for the celebrated Lakes of Kilarney, 
at which I arrived about 6 :30 P. M. 

The Lakes of Kilarney are justly entitled the 
most beautiful in the United Kingdom. 

Visiting Ross Castle and Island I took a small 
row boat and crossing the lower lake enjoyed its 
wild and romantic scenery. Large and magnificent 
mountains loomed up in portentious proportions 
in all their rugged grandeur. We pass the ruins 
of an ancient castle, built by some old Irish 
King, away back, I am told, in the fifth century. 
The scenery all along presents a charming aspect, 
far excelling in attractiveness our own famous 
and well known Delaware Water Gap. Here and 
there are to be seen the straw thatched roofs of 
the Irish peasantry, and occasionally one a little 
better than another, built in rough, rude masonry, 
at whose door the busy housewife, in true regal 
Irish costume, consisting of a night cap with im- 
mense frills, on her head, and her petticoats 
tucked up, was seen bent over the tub, with her 
arms up to her elbows in soap suds, scrubbing 
away for dear life, reminded me forcibly that I 
was in the Emerald Isle, and treading the sacred 
sod of ould Ireland, where St. Patrick is en- 
shrined in the hearts of her peasantry. Gliding 
along the tranquil waters we enter Lough Leane 
or Lesser Lake, which is five miles long by three^ 
broad. 

It contains some thirty islands, the principal of 
which are Ross, Rabbit and Innisfallen. Every 
variety of scenery can be found on this latter is- 
land — grassy slopes, beautiful lawns, and seques- 
tered glades. It is not to be wondered at that it 
holds a charm to captivate the poet Moore, who 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 1 7 



has crystalized his beautiful thoughts into 

verse : 

Sweet Innisfallen, fare the well, 
May calm and sunshine long be thine ; 

How fair thou art let others tell. 
While but to feel how fair be mine. • 

Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell 

In memory's dream that sunny smile, 
Which o'er thee on that evening fell 
•) When first I saw thy fairy isle. 

I left Killarney, Wednesday, August 14th, at 
9;20 A. M., for the famous city of Dublin. Noth- 
ing of real interest transpired along the trip, and 
indeed the transition so suddenly from the 
beautiful scenery around the Lakes, to the more 
sombre and common place scenery on the railroad 
from Killarney" to Dublin, was not calculated to 
inspire me with any great degree of interest. Ar- 
riving in Dublin at 5:30 P. M., I proceeded, in 
company with Dr. Mitchell of Alabama, to take 
a ride through the city to North Wall Dock, a 
distance of about 2 miles from the railroad 
depot. 

I visited the principal object of attraction, the 
Castle, the official residence of the Lord-Lieu- 
tenant since the reign of Elizabeth, its beautiful 
chapel^built of Irish limestone and oak. On our 
way to the Castle we paid a visit to the Bank of 
Ireland, in College Green, formerly the Irish 
House of Parliament, and considered to be the 
finest building in Ireland. 

* Immediately opposite the Bank is located Trin- 
ity College, from which have emanated some of 
the greatest arts of our time. It covers an area 
of nearly 80 acres. The Cathedral of the Holy 
Trinity was the next point of attraction, erected 
in the 11th century. It is replete with historical 
interest, and it was here that the Liturgy was first 
read in Ireland in the English language. 



1 8 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



The Four Courts was the next to demand our 
attention. It is a magnificent structure, and cost 
over a million of dollars. Over the entrance are 
4 pictures worthy of notice : first, James the 
First abolishing the Brehon laws ; Henry II. 
granting a charter to the inhabitants ; John sign- 
ing the Magna Charter and William the Conqueror 
establishing courts of justice. The Custom 
House and Nelson's Monument next command our 
attention, the former erected at a cost of two and 
a half million of dollars, and, externally consid- 
ered, is said to be the finest building in the city. 
Left Dublin at 7:15 P. M. The boat made good 
time and arrived at Holyhead, Wales, at 1 :15 a.m. , 
crossing St. George's Channel. The distance 
from Kingstown, the harbor of Dublin, is sixty- 
six miles, and the channel is crossed in four hours 
and thirty minutes, average time. 

Quitting Holyhead in the 2:10 train bound for 
London, my friend and guest, Dr. Mitchell, pro- 
ceeded to ensconce himself in a novel position 
preparatory to his taking 40 winks — which just 
imagine, sleeping on a hat-rack, growling like 
a bear with a sore head, at my persistency in hav- 
ing the window open beside me, which let in a 
cool and refreshing draft, for the cars were very 
close and warm. As we dash through the coun- 
try in the wee sraa' hours of the morning i leave 
the Doctor to continue his disturbed nocturnal 
visions in the land of dreams, which no doubt 
were far from agreeable in his novel and uncom- 
fortable position, while I, too absorbed with the 
constantly changing scenes before me, continued 
to jot down in brief the sensations I experienced, 
as we rattle through the land of the Welshman 
to the great city at the southern extremity of the 
continent — London. Now, gliding through beau- 
tiful farms, and anon passing, seemingly, stealth- 
ily by some old venerable ruins, whose ivy clad 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 1 9 



turrets looming up darkly against the moonlit 
sky bespeak the glory of departed days, around 
whose shadowy retreats and sequestered glades 
linger the hallowed story whose history has long 
since passed into the woof and web of romance ; 
we slow up and pass over Telford's Tubular 
Suspension Bridge, situated about two miles from 
Bangor, and cross the channel that separates 
the island of Anglesea from the main land. This 
bridge is considered the greatest triumph of en- 
gineering skill in modern times. It took 1,800 
men 4 years to build it, and cost $5,000,000. < 

The beach stretches itself far away in the 
moonlight, and reminds me of our own popular 
beach at Long Branch. Proceeding along the 
main line we arrive at Chester, one of the oldest 
cities, it is said, in the United Kingdom. It is beau- 
tifully situated on an elevated bank of the River 
Dee. The Castle is the principal object of attrac- 
tion, erected in the time of William the Con- 
queror. We are now within six hour's ride of 
London as we leave this ancient city behind us. 

Arrived in London at 10:15 A. M. The most 
wealthy city in the world, with a population of 
4,000,000. 'Breakfasted at the Grand Midland, 
the largest hotel in the United Kingdom. I am 
informed that the furniture alone cost $425,000, 
but, for my part, I was not so highly impressed 
with its Table d'Hote, as I have been fully as 
well, if not better served, at the Fifth Avenue 
Hotel, New York, 

Here I find myself — a mote in the sunbeam — 
amid miMions of human beings where all the 
passions of the human heart run rampart, and 
whose lives full many are overshadowed by a sky 
of misery, the only stars which shine down upon 
them, are penury and want, and across whose 
dark horizon flits but few straggling clouds of 
happiness. One need to possess the graphic pen 



20 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



of its once most illustrious and distinguished 
citizen — Charles Dickens, to portray life as it is 
in this great throbbing heart of England. 




MIDLAND GBAND HOTEL, LONDON. 

Changing ray English money into French, at 
one of the leading bankers, I left the City of 
London for Paris, via Dover, still accompanied 

by my friend Dr. M , intending to make my 

tour of observation through London on my re- 
turn. I took the short route, occupying only 9^£ 
hours, while some of my comrades preferred a 
less expensive route, but which took them 22 
hours. 

Friday, August 16th, I found myself in the 
French metropolis. 

I hastily repaired to my hotel and from here 
cabled to Washington, New Jeresy, the follow- 
ing dispatch in French, which was interpreted 
into English by my guide: " Beatty, Washing- 
ton, New Jersey. Safe! Report, Grand Hotel, 
Paris.'' 

This being in accordance with my promise to 
my friends at home, who naturally wished to 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 



know of. my safe arrival. My stay in Ireland 
being of so short a duration that I was fearful I 




GRAKD HOTEL, PARIS. 



would not get a reply in time without experienc- 
ing a delay I did not want to be subjected to. I 
was surprised that in less than four hours I re- 
ceived the following cable in reply: " Beatty, 
Grand Hotel, Paris. In line all," which private 
telegraph to the uninitiated meant a favorable 
report of my business and all well. The inter- 
pretation of these few words can be found out on 
referring to the key secretly preserved at my 
office, from where I always made it a rule to be 
daily telegraphed to as to the state of my busi- 
ness, wherever I may be travelling, either in 
America or abroad. I was glad to hear the cable 
indicated a prosperous state of affairs in my 
business. 

Am I in Paris — the city of the world — home of 
the Kings and Emperors from the time of Julius 
Caesar — the acknowledged head of European 
civilization — whose streets have witnessed the 
bloodiest carnage in the annals of history at one 
time, and at another resounded to the Paeans of 
Victory and Glory, canopied with arches of 



22 



DANIEL F. BE ATT Y" 3 



myrtle, the clanging of the hoofs of the war 
horse muffled as they sunk upon beds of flowers 




THE CHAMPS ELYSEES, PARIS. 



scattered on the pavements before them, while 
anthems resounded in praises to the King Maker 
— Napoleon — beneath whose imperial edict nations 
trembled and obeyed. How once my young and 
childish imagination went out and idolized this 
man when I read of his stupendous exploits of 
military daring and skill. How my heart rejects 
and loathes him now, as I reflect, look back and 
read the bloody pages of his history. One human 
being at whose command eternity seemed to have 
opened its jaws of death, and thousands upon 
thousands of souls were hurled into the maelstrom 
of destruction, sent unprepared before Jehovah's 
awful throne. All for what? France? No! for 
self — ambition. A throne, from which he, like 
Caesar of old, could rule the world. 

I made the Grand Hotel my head quarters, 
situated in the gayest part of Paris, adjoining 
the New Opera House, and in close proximity to 
all the leading theatres and principal railway 
stations. 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 23 



This magnificent structure is entirely separate 
from all other buildings, covers an extent of 
9,000 square yards, and its rooms are furnished 
in the most luxurious style. Its dining room is 
the most magnificent in the world. My first 
visit was to the Exposition Universal. It would 
be impossible to give any adequate conception of 
the Exposition, nor shall we attempt it; suffice 
to say, that it far exceeded my conceptions of all 
that is grand, wonderful and beautiful. Of 
course you are waiting no doubt with intense in- 
terest upon what I shall say upon the Piano and 
Organ question. Well — I must confess I feel 
somewhat embarrassed, one does not feel like 
bestowing eulogiums upon one's own self .perhaps 
it would come with better grace from my friend 

at my elbow, Dr. M of Alabama, whom I 

consider to be a pronounced critic. He says: 

" The American Pianos and Organs beats them 
all, and Beatty's leads the van!" 

I immediately proceed to search in my pockets 
for some slight token in honor of his golden 
opinion, but he laughingly retorts "that he is 
one of the Judges in the Exposition that cannot 
be bought," but nothing daunted, we proceed 
straightway to the place where the inner man is 
tenderly cared for and the cravings of appetite 
appeased, in honor of this flattering decision. 

Having spent all day at the Exposition, we 
employed our evening by a visit to ±he Mabille, 
or Garden of Flowers. It is indeed a fairy scene 
of enchantment. Recesses, bowers and groves 
everywhere meet the eye, while the multitude of 
gas jets twinkle through the grass, or illuminate 
the Chinese lanterns festooned from the trees. 

The next day, Saturday, with an excellent 
guide and a cab, was devoted to "doing" Paris in 
the most approved manner, the principal points 
of interest of which were: 



24 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



The Madeline, Faubourgs Saint Honore, Palace 
de 1'Elysee, the Palais Royal, the Louvre, Boule- 
vards, Place Vendome, and a number of other 
important points which occupied our attention, 
until wearied with sight-seeing we repaired to our 
hotel to recuperate our energies, and cater to the 
whims and caprices of a sharpened appetite. 

Sunday is a singular day in Paris, what with 
the teaching of Voltaire and the noted profligacy 
of the French people, the splendor of their 
churches and the magnificence of their cathedrals 
illy compare with that reverence for religion 
and the things pertaining thereto, that one is 
accustomed to in America. 

Repairing to the Church of Notre Dame, situ- 
ated in an elegant and gay quarter of the city, I 
found it mostly occupied by persons whose 
principal motive appeared to lay in the display 
of their attire. 

• It much resembles a Roman Temple, with its 
high altar supported by Corinthian columns 
composed of bronze bases and capitals. Many 
strangers visit this church for the purpose of 
listening to the singing, which is excellent, the 
organ being remarkably fine, some magnitude of 
which can be arrived at, when it is said that it 
contains 7,000 pipes. During my stay in the 
city one day I experienced a very novel sensation, 
that of ascending in a balloon half-a-mile above 
the city, from which Paris and all its environs 
can be seen at a bird's eye glance. 

Need I say that I was honored by a Gold (?) 
Medal for the remarkable heroism displayed on 
the occasion. I slyly attribute it to the fact, 
however, that I was so high up that the expres- 
sion of my countenance could not be detected, 
otherwise I am afraid I should have been accused 
of looking rather scared than heroic, as I was 
under the impression I should surely faint, and 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LA.NDS. 25 



was heartily glad to reach terra firma again, not 
however, before assuring my auditors that it was a 
matter of every day concern with me, which I 
secretly believe was doubted by some, as I de- 
tected a few sly winks and nudges from the 
knowing ones, who apparently enjoyed my 
assumed sangfroid. 

Monday I continued my sight-seeing, and 
visited the battle field made so memorable by the 
siege of Paris during their war with the Prus- 
sians in 1871. Replete with historical reminis- 
cences, well worthy the pen of the greatest 
French writer of the age, Victor Hugo, who has 
so skilfully surrounded the trophys of war with 
the laurels of peace, that one is at a loss to know 
where Fiction ends and Fact begins. 

The night before the battle, that dread partition 
of time that separates the living of the morning 
from the dead of the morrow. The night before 
the battle, when in imagination one might well 
fancy we see Napoleon, standing with folded 
arms, solitary and alone upon the barren heath, 
between the camps of the two contending forces. 
Alone he stands, statute like and motionless — 
peering out into the darkness of the night, as if 
eager to consult the oracles of fate for the last 
time. 

A yawning chasm opens up before him — no 
witch of Endor — but the Angel of Death appears 
before him, and bids him sign the blood-stained 
covenant with hell which shall dash unhappy 
France over the precipice, into the maelstrom of 
blood and destruction. It is done. The morning 
comes, the vision has vanished with the night, 
but on the blood-stained page of history, recorded 
for all time to come, we read the realization of the 
vision. 

But France, proud unhappy France, still rises 



26 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



Phoenix like up from the ashes of monarchy, to 
the freedom of a republic. 

All is silent now — a solemn hush pervades the 
scene. How changed ! The summer wind holds 
dalliance with the nodding daisys, swinging to 
and fro to the summer breeze, as if singing to 
the heart in a language unspeakable God's great 
anthem as sung long before by the Angel's at the 
coronation of the King of Kings at Bethlehem: — 

"Glory to God in the highest, 
And on earth Peace, 
Good will toward men." 

The next day I proceeded to Versailles, the most 
interesting town in the environs of Paris, and 12 
miles southwest of the metropolis-. One can form 
a very inadequate conception of the magnificence 
of its grounds and palaces by a mere description. 
The home of Napoleon and the Palace of the 
Kings, before his advent to the throne. The 
grounds cover an extent of sixty miles, containing 
fountains that cost $2000 an hour to play, the most 
magnificent artificial landscape the ingenuity of 
man could desire, and palaces whose architectural 
grandeur exceeded in splendor any ancient or 
modern king, lest it be Solomon, and even of him 
it is written that in comparison with the lilies of 
the valley, even ' ' Solomon in all his glory was 
not arrayed like one of these;" truly admonishing 
us that all the pomps, all the glory and magnifi- 
cence of thrones, principalities and powers, shall 
crumble ' ' like the baseless fabric of a vision, " 
before the awful majesty and glory of 

THE KING OF KINGS ! 

I left Paris Wednesday, Aug. 21st, by fast ex- 
press train for Turin, Italy, via Paris, Lyons & 
Mediterranean R. R. 

At Macon, situated on the river Saone, I stopped 
at the Hotel de 1' Europe one half hour for dinner, 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 2,7 



and proceeded on our journey. Now we ascend 
the Alps, in fact I am told by a gentlemen resid- 
ing at Florence, that even from Paris we com- 
mence the ascending grade during the first 100 
miles on the road. I find myself agreeably enter- 
tained by Mr. Tilden, of Boston, Mass. , a finer 
gentlemen than whom it has not been my good 
fortune to meet during my travels. 

The engine puffs away lively as we ascend, now 
rounding this curve, now turning that, as zig zag 
we continue our course. It is 11 P. m. , and the 
moonlight falls upon the Alps, bathing its snowy 
caps with amber light. 

The scenery is grand beyond description, and 
never shall I forget the magnificence of the sight. 
The stars shine out in all their brightness, whose 
splendor seemed, under an Italian sky, undimin- 
ished by the brightness of the moon. I am filled 
with a solemn awe as I gaze mutely out upon the 
scene before me; and as I contemplate the glory 
and magnificence of God's handiwork, I am im- 
pressed more than ever before with the belief that 
all through my life God has ever been with me, 
to guide and protect my wandering footsteps. 

About 4:30 A. M., we are instructed to change 
cars. I leave with some compunctions my fine 
palace car, and am transferred to quite an ordi- 
nary common Italian car. We are now on top of 
the Aips. 

"To me they seemed the barriers of a world, 
Saying thus far, and no farther ! 

******** 

My wandering thoughts, my only company, 

And they before me still, oft as I looked 

A strange delight, mingled with fear, came o'er me, 

A wonder as at things I had not heard of. 

A something that informs him 'tis a moment 

Whence he may date henceforward and forever." 

Here is located the Italian Custom House, 
where I am obliged to show my passport and have 



28 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



my baggage overhauled. This being the first 
occasion of showing my passport, as at Queens- 
town and Paris my baggage was simply examin- 
ed. At 5:30 A. M., we pass through Mount Cenis 
Tunnel. I had an excellent view of the entrance 
from the French side, as our train stopped some 
little time before entering. It occupied just 22 
minutes to pass through the tunnel, and on 
emerging on the other side the scenery of the 
Alps was grand in the extreme. 

Arrived at Turin, 9 A. M., where after break- 
fasting at the Grand Hotel de 1' Europe, opposite 




GRAND HOTEL DE L EUROPE, TURIN. 

the King's Palace, I set out via Alexandria, for 
Genoa, the birth place of Christopher Columbus. 

A monument erected to his memory is situated 
near the railway station. At the foot of the 
statue a figure of America is kneeling, the whole 
being composed of white marble. After dining 
at the Hotel De Ville, I set out to visit the Cathe- 
dral of San Lorenzo. It was erected in the 
eleventh century, gothic in style, and built of 
white and black marble. It contains many inter- 
esting scriptural relics, among which I was shown 
the dish upon which our blessed Saviour is sup- 
posed to have ate the Last Supper. 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 



29 



So valuable was it considered that the Jews lent 
the Genoese 4,000,000 francs on it within fifty 
years. 

The Church of L'Annunciata, second in size to 
the Cathedral, was next visited. It is truly a 
magnificent building, rich in decorations and 
highly colored frescoes. The rich marble in the 
interior gives it an appearance of great beauty. 
The Palazzo Doria situated in the centre of a 
beautiful garden which extends to the sea, forms 
a fine feature in the picturesque scenery of Genoa. 
In the garden are walks of cypress and orange; 
also fountains, statues and vases. 

Engaging the service of a boatman, I enjoyed 
a ride upon the Gulf of Genoa, which opens out 
into the broad Mediterranean, obtaining a good 
view of the city, which rises to the height of 500 
feet above the sea. 




VIEW OF GENOA, ITALY. 

I was not so favorably impressed with the city 
the next day, as I find the streets dirty in the ex- 
treme. At 1. 10 p. m. , I leave for Pisa. The train 
passes through a long tunnel on leaving the city, 
as Genoa is built upon an eminence overlooking 
the sea. For the first 100 miles we appear to be 



30 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



constantly diving in and out of tunnels. Now- 
gliding along the borders of the beautiful Medi- 
terranean Sea, and again plunging into the murky 
darkness of one of these subterranean caverns 
at the rate of 60 miles an hour. 

All along the route the country presents a bleak 
barren prospect, reminding me of the illustra- 
tions I have often seen of the Holy Land. When 
about twenty miles or so from Pisa, the country 
looked less wild and gradually farms and farm 
houses gave tokens of thrift and industry. 

I found Pisa an ancient and much decayed 
city, chiefly remarkable for its Cathedral, and 
Leaning Tower. The former is an interesting 
specimen of the style of architecture of the 11th 
century, built in the form of a Latin cross. Its 
12 altars were designed by Michael Angelo. The 
leaning tower is 190 feet high, overhanging the 
base some 15 feet, and has occupied this leaning 
position for over six centuries. The ascent is 
made by 295 steps, the view from the top being 
extensive and beautiful. 




MSA AND THE IiEANING TOWEK. 

Sallying forth at 4. A. m. , filled with an intense 
desire to reach the great city of Rome, I take the 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 3 1 



4:53 a. M., train, bound for the Immortal City. 
From Pisa to Rome the country is flat, and noth- 
ing of special interest to attract attention. 

The railway enters the city by an opening 
made for its passage, near the Port Maggiorie, 
and has its terminus at the Piazza di Termini. 

As I approached the city I could see the an- 
cient ruins of the old wall, which seemed to re- 
mind me of Jerusalem and Palestine ; an irregu- 
lar zigzag structure, mainly of brick, with 
towers, bastions and all kinds and forms of ma- 
sonry. 

It would be difficult for me to describe my 
feelings; to think that I should all my life desire 
to see Rome, and now I can hardly realize that 
my eyes behold it. It is more like a vision than 
a reality. 

I am in Rome ! oft as the morning ray 

Visit these eyes, waking, at once I cry, 

Whenco this excess of joy ? What has befallen me. 

And from within a thrilling voice replies: 

" Thou art in Rome the city that so long 

Reigned absolute ; the mistress of the world." 

On arriving at the hotel I experienced consid- 
erable inconvenience, as I found no one who could 
speak to me in English. You can therefore, per- 
haps imagine my discomforture when, hungry 
and tired, I had ordered a fine rare steak, and after 
waiting in mute expectancy of shortly being 
able to appease the cravings of my appetite, 
the servant approached and deferentially pro- 
ceeded to set before me a flagon of beer. To this 
I mildly demurred, and after considerable dumb 
pantomime which he neither would or could un- 
derstand, I resorted to the landlord in despair, 
whom I found could speak a little broken Eng- 
lish, and to whom I endeavored to make my 
wants and wishes known as best I could, and 
with tolerable success. 



32 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



After being served with some sort of dish I 
certainly did not order, but which I found quite 
acceptable in the absence of anything else, I en- 
deavored to make the most of it, after which I 
conveyed the information that I should like a 
cab, and equipped with a Guide book of Rome, 
I instructed the driver to take me to the great 




VIEW OP ROL-E. 

Cathedral St. Peters, which information I con- 
veyed by pointing it out to that distinguished 
worthy on a map I had with me. 

St. Peters at Rome, the home of the Popes, 
is the largest cathedral in the world, and cost 
$16,000,000. On entering this stupendous edi- 
fice one cannot fail to be impressed with the 
grandeur of the interior, with its statutes, vesti- 
bules, massive piers, arches, aud dome, which 
have commanded the admiration of multitudes. 
The covering over the high altar alone cost 
$100,000. 

A splendid view of the city is had on ascend- 
ing the dome. Viewing persons passing along 
the pavement below, we can scarcely realize 
them to be human beings, so diminutive do they 
appear. 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 



33 



St. Maria Maggiore is the most beautiful 
church of its kind in existence. In a small 
chapel underneath the high altar are preserved 
the boards of the manger in which the Saviour 
was laid after his birth. 

St. Clemente is remarkable for the subterranean 
basilica which has recently been excavated be- 
neath it. They probably contain the earliest ex- 
amples of christian paintings, and date from the 
8th century. 

I spent Sunday in the Holy City. It was a de- 
lightful Sabbath. The chiming of many bells 
proclaimed the hour of worship. 

In the evening, under the custody of a reliable 
guide, I visited the Colosseum, the greatest of 




THB COLO88EUM. 



antique structures, built in honor of Titus, 
and on which it is said 60,000 Jews were engaged 
ten years. It is said to have seated 87,000 people. 
To obtain entrance at night it is necessary to have 
a ticket from the Commandant de Place. 

Looking back in after years, it seems to me, I 
can live over again my experiences and sensa- 
tions during that eventful moonlight night, so 
well expressed by the poet Byron : 



DANIEL F. BEAUTY'S 



. „ I do remember me that in my youth, 

When I was wandering, upon such a night, 

I stood within the Colosseum's wall 

Midst the chief relics of almighty Rome. 

The trees which grew along the broken arches 

Waved dark in the blue midnight, and the stars 

Shone through the rents of ruin ; from afar 

The watch-dog bay'd beyond the Tiber ; and 

More near, from out the Caesar's Palace came 

The Owl's long cry, and interruptedly, 

Of distant sentinels the fitful song 

Begun and died upon the gentle wind. 

Some cypresses beyond the time-worn breach 

Appeared to skirt the horizon ; yet they stood 

Within a bow shot where the Caesars dwelt, 

And dwell the tuneless birds of night, amid 

A grove, which springs through leveled battlements, 

And twines its roots with the imperial hearths ; 

Ivy usurps the laurels's place of growth ; 

But the gladiator's bloody circus stands, 

A noble wreck in ruinous pei'fection, 

While Ctesar's chambers and the Augustan halls 

Grovel on earth in indistinct decay." 

In the vineyard northeast are the remains of 
the Baths of Titus, founded on a portion of the 
Golden House of Nero. 

Truly are the predictions of our Saviour ful- 
filled, for shorn of all its glory, setting in the 
ashes of its gloom and desolation, nothing re- 
mains but a heap of crumbling ruins. 

At 9:20 A. M., I quitted Rome for Naples. The 
day is lovely, a gentle breeze stirs amid the 
foliage, with hardly a cloud floating in the clear 
blue Italian sky. The country from Rome to 
Naples bears a strong resemblance to the scenery 
surrounding the Holy Land. The mountains wear 
a barren look, and the very cattle, lean and poor, 
grazing on the hill side, seem to hear evidence 
of the sterility of its soil. The people bear a 
strong resemblance to the Arab, and the women 
are to be seen working in the field. 

Very few travel first class through Italy, and I 
therefore find myself most of the time travelling 
alone. I arrive at Naples at 5:20 p. m. It' is a 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 35 



favorite retreat of the wealthy Romans. The 
situation of Naples is as fine as can be imagined, 
being partly seated on a spacious bay, upon the 
shores of which are magnificent villas and gar- 
dens. There are some 300 churches in this city, 
many of them remarkable for their architectural 
beauty. 

As I approached the city I obtained a view of 
Mount Vesuvius, over which a cloud hung, some- 
what intercepting a full view of this, the most 
active volcano in the world. 

At this season of the year and in this climate, 
one must go to bed well protected, otherwise it 
will be difficult to obtain any sleep, owing to the 
depredations of the bloodthirsty and insinuating 
mosquito, who present their bills for payment 
long in advance of the landlord, in fact so im- 
portunate were they in their demands, that I 
found it necessary to put an end to their further 
annoyance by leaving them in full possession of 
my chamber, to quarrel among themselves over 
their lost opportunity of a splendid banquet. 

Desirous of visiting Mount Vesuvius, and to 
behold the rising of the sun at its summit, set 
out to procure me a conveyance. 

The hour was extremely early, 1 :50 A. M. , but 
nothing daunted at the prospect of the drive 
before me, or the obscure and toilsome ascent 
up the mountains, I accosted a very forbidding 
looking fellow, the driver of a cab, of whom 
there are any number to be found in the city of. 
Naples ready to charge strangers any extortionate 
sum to convey them to the summit of the moun- 
tain. They dream away their time in their cabs 
wherever they may be located, while their horses 
seem to sleep in their harness, as, hitched to their 
cabs, they stand ready at a moment's notice to go 
any desired direction. 

"Halloo 1 there"! cried I, as he lazily descend- 



36 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



ed from his seat and viewed me from head to 
foot with his sinister eye, and taking off his cap 
to salute me, he answers : 

" Si, Signore, Si." 

*' How much to the mountains and back," I 
inquired, returning his glances with some degree 
of mistrust. 

" 20 francs, Signore." 

" Why man that's nearly twice as much as you 
ought to charge." 

He shrugged his shoulders and made some re- 
mark in Italian which I could not understand, 
except " Diavilo," from which I inferred he was 
quietly consigning my soul to the lower regions 
for finding fault with his charges. 

Knowing these people to be very vindictive, I 
made as though I would abandon my project. 
'Ha, il miocabretto a 15 franc," replies he." 

"I'll give you 12 francs and that's all," I an- 
swered, unconcerned whether he accepted or re- 
jected the offer. 

His eyes seem to sparkle, for he caught sight of 
my diamond stud as it glittered in the rays of 
the light, but which I. was not conscious of, only 
as I recalled the circumstance afterwards. 

Conveying to me, in his broken English, the 
fact that he would accept the sum named, I was 
about to accept and enter the vehicle, when I was 
suddenly grasped by the arm, and a stranger 
accosted me. 

Turning around I saw a gentleman, tall and 
of Commanding address. 

"Beg pardon," said he, "but where do you 
intend going at this extremely early hour ?" 

Glad that I had met some one who could speak 
English, I replied : 

" To Mount Vesuvius." 

" Well, I should like to see you for just a mo- 
ment," and giving me a gentle pull by the sleeve, 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 37 



and a movement of the head, as though convey- 
ing 1 the idea that he wanted to be out of ear shot 
of the driver. 

As I turned an inquiring look upon the stranger, 
I mechanically obeyed, with considerable confi- 
dence, as I fairly worshipped any one who could 
speak my own native tongue. Stopping near a 
corner, some 50 yards away, he continued in a 
hasty undertone : 

" Do you really intend to go to Mount Vesuvius 
at this hour of the morning V 

Assuring him that such was my intentions, he 
looked at me in a sort of astonished manner, which 
gave me to understand that something was 
wrong, the nature of which I could not divine. 

" Well," — he replied — " I suppose you are a 
stranger in these parts V 

Assuring him I was, he continued : 

"My friend, it is none of my business, but I 
will give you a bit of advise. Don't you go — not 
a bit of it. If you attempt the trip at this early 
hour, you will in all probability be robbed and 
perhaps murdered. Why, the lustre of your 
diamond and watch chain, and the probability of 
your having a large sum of money about your 
person, will be the means of exposing you to 
their violence and perhaps murder." 

" Murder !" gasped I. 

" Why, of course, these men belong to the 
lazzaroni — see how angry and impatient he 
grows as he stands there expecting your return." 

" I am ten thousand times obliged to you. I 
must acknowledge it was thoughtlessness on my 
part, and not aware of the" — 

'* Never mind," interrupted he, " we must be 
moving to avoid further trouble." 

I hallooed back to him that I guessed I would 
not go — but wait till morning. Whether he un- 
derstood my answer or not I could not say, but 



38 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



rushing up to us with oaths and threats of vio- 
lence, he gave me to understand that I had for 
feited my 12 francs. 

Nothing daunted, my new-found friend mo- 
tioned him away, upon which his anger became 
intense, and plunging - his hand into his vest, I 
plainly discerned the gleam of a poignard, as he 
scowled at me with intense malignity. 

At this movement my companion drew forth 
a revolver, and looking him straight in the eye 
with a determination which I knew meant busi- 
ness, he covered our retreat beyond the hearing 
of his rage and curses. 

I offered to recompense my English friend in 
any way in my power, but he would not listen to 
anything of the kind. Assuring him that I 
should always bear him in grateful remembrance, 
we parted at the hotel, the recipient of my 
warmest wishes, which I felt to be totally inade- 
quate to the services he had rendered, me. 




POMPEII AMD MOUNT VESUVIUS. 

At 7:30 I once more essayed to carry out my 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 39 



original intentions, and had the good fortune to 
fall in company with a gentleman contemplating 
the same journey, who with the advice and as- 
sistance of our hotel proprietor, secured for us a 
first-class cenveyance and a reliable driver, and 
again we were off for old hoary -headed Mount 
Vesuvius ; by the way, the ruins of Pompeii, — 
the most wonderful of the antiquities of Europe, 
recalling the actual presence of a Roman town as 
it existed 2,000 years ago. 

I arrived at the ruins at 10:50, and employing 
the services of a guide found myself in this de- 
serted city traversing its carefully paved and 
well worn streets. The houses generally extend 
in unbroken lines, in an excellent state of preser- 
vation and bearing the appearance of their being 
actually inhabitated. But their voiceless cham- 
bers are tenantless, and the people that once 
thronged its streets and theatres are mingled 
with the dust and debris of nearly 2,000 years 
ago. 

What a flood of thought comes pouring in 
upon me as I gaze upon its walls, its gates, streets, 
houses, temples, fountains and theatres. Turn- 
ing to the right or to the left, as you wander from 
street to street, you can almost fancy its inhabi- 
tants would momentarily come out to greet you. 

The prophesy of Isaiah is forcibly presented to* 
my mind : 

"The defenced city shall be desolate, and the 
habitations forsaken, and left like a wilderness." 
— Isaiah, xxvii., 10. 

f ' But the cormorant and the bittern shall pos- 
sess it ; the owl also and the raven shall dwell in 
it, and he shall stretch out upon it the line of 
confusion and the stones of emptiness. " — Isaiah, 
xxxiv,, 11. 

Empty and desolate indeed were its habita- 



tions, and the silence of centuries enshrouded 
the darkness of its sepulchres and tombs. As- 
cending the elevated pavement of the Forum its 
position commanded a magnificent view of Vesu- 
vius and the Appenines, and I could look with 
awe and veneration upon the silent city, the 
home of Cicero, Homer and Ovid, whose history, 
wrapped in the obscurity of over a hundred cen- 
turies, still proclaim them to be the most dis- 
tinguished poets of ancient, if not of modern 
times. 

We will turn our attention now to Vesuvius, 
that rears her magnetic cone in the distance, the 
only volcanic mountain on the continent of 
Europe, and one of the most active in the world; 
from the earliest ages on record its eruptions have 
occurred at intervals of a few years. It rises in 
the midst of the plain of Campania, and is sur- 
rounded on the north and east by mountains 
of Appennine limestone. It is open to the plain of 
Naples on the west, and on the south its base is 
reached by the sea. 

Ascending gradually we leave the cultivated 
fields and vineyards behind us, occasionally 
traversed by streams of old lava, black, rough 
and sterile, and finally reached the Hermitage, a 
convent where a few monks keep a sort of an 
inn for the visitors of Vesuvius. Farther up we 
traverse large fields of lava extremely rough. At 
the base of the cone we prepared for the ascent 
over a heap of crumbling ashes and cinders, 
extremely steep. 

In another hour we found ourselves on extreme- 
ly hot ground, intolerable to the hand and fatal 
to the soles of our shoes; it steamed with hot 
vapors and was covered with beautiful effores- 
cences of sulphur. Smoke issued from numerous 
crevices, at the entrance of which a piece of 
paper or stick took fire. 



TOUK IN FOREIGN LANDS. 



41 



Stooping low we could hear, as it were, a liquid 
boiling. The hard but thin crust upon which we 
stood had apparently settled down in some places. 

A few steps more and wo arrive at the very 
summit of the cone, and with bated breath we 
gaze into the crater, down its precipitous depths, 
400 or 500 feet. When in action Vesusvius 
presents a magnificent spectacle. 

Down to the reign of Titus Vespasian there is 
no evidence of any volcanic activity, but in the 
first year of his reign, A. D. 79, it burst forth 
with destructive fury, overwhelming the flourish- 
ing cities of Hurculaneum and Pompeii, all traces 
of which were lost for upwards of 1600 years, and 
were only accidentally discovered during the last 
century. 

Another incident happened me on my descent 
of Mount Vesuvius, which impressed upon my 
mind vivid remembrances of the place, which 
I shall not in all probability ever forget. 




ATTACKED BY BOBBERS, f 

I had wandered away from my companions and 



42 DANIEL F. BEATTT'S 



guide in search of some mementoes to bring back 
with me on my return, and was intently examin- 
ing a curious specimen of mineral which had 
encrusted itself in the scoria at my feet, when I 
was suddenly confronted by four as rough look- 
ing customers, as it was ever my ill fortune to 
see. 

They evidently enjoyed my surprise on finding 
myself thus suddenly, as it were, in their power. 1 
looked around for my companions and guide, but 
as I had descended a slight declivity in the moun- 
tains, they were hid from sight. 

I had not, even after my experience of the morn- 
ing, taken the precaution to arm myself, but 
fortunately had left my valuables at the hotel, 
with the exception of a small sum of money. 

One of them approached me flourishing a bright 
stilletto in the air, while the others set up a low, 
brutal laugh. 

Addressing me in Italian, the nature of which I 
could only surmise, I saw it would be worse than 
useless to make any defence, and knowing their 
intent I hastily besought them to release me and 
they were at liberty to take all I possessed, while 
I hurriedly put my wits to work as to how I 
should escape from their meshes, for I had, indeed, 
fallen in with another band of robbers, with which 
this mountain is infested. 

I was not many moments in making up my 
mind, indeed, if I had been, in all probability I 
should never have had the opportunity of jotting 
down my travels in Foreign Lands. 

Hastily drawing forth a huge business wallet, 
which I noted they viewed with grim satisfaction. 
I threw it with all my strength in the direction 
just opposite to the way I wished to escape. 

Eager to be the first possessor of the treasure, 
they all made a rush for it, and during the con- 
fusion that ensued I bounded like a deer down 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 43 



the mountain side, running for dear life, while I 
heard the crack of their pistols, and the whiz of 
their bullets past my head. I was not long I 
assure you in regaining my companions, to whom 
I related my experience. Receiving a repri- 
mand from my guide, I inwardly thanked provi- 
dence that 1 had again made such a narrow 
escape. 




THE CBATBB OF VE8UVTU8 A8 I SAW IT. 

I was heartily glad to get back to Naples, and 
from thence I took my departure for Rome again. 
Seven long hours travelling through a hot Italian 
sun, brought me once more to the "Eternal 
City." Here in company with an old resident of 
Rome, whose acquaintance I had made on the 
train from Naples, I rode about the city and 
visited some of the principal objects of interest. 

I was so well pleased with my experience that 
I concluded to spend another day. So the next 
morning I was provided with an excellent guide, 
costing me 24 francs, which I by no means regret- 
ted, and proceeded to visit the ancient ruins 
which Rome holds enshrined, of all the sublimest 



44 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



monuments of history and antiquity. Every spot 
is sacred to the memory of departed glories. Its 
ruins scattered in vast and shapeless masses over 




INTEBIOB OP THE COLOSSEUM. 

the Seven Hills impress us with solemn awe, for 
they stand in lonely majesty, with groves of 
funereal cypress waving over them. Its palaces, 
its tombs, its baths, its temples, stand majestic 
and solitary amid the waste of time and desola- 
tion. 

From ancient Rome, turn we now our attention 
to the time when — 

"Joy to the world our Saviour is born." 

I find myself descending the very steps our 
beloved Saviour had descended, a prisoner, over 
1,800 years before at Jerusalem. 

I stood upon the very steps and peered into 
the gloom and darkness of the Mamertine Prison, 
where Paul and Peter were cast, bound in chains. 

I was in the very house where St. Paul lived ; 
was in the prison in which he was thrown — saw 
the very cup with which he baptised. 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 45 



Filled with a strange reverence and awe, im- 
agination led me back through the dim dark 
vista of long ages ago, to the days when' Paul, 
standing up before Festus, surrounded by the 
High Priests and the Jews, appealed to Caesar as 
a Roman citizen. 

"Were it not for this appeal to Caesar, Rome, for 
aught we know, might never have became the 
"Holy City." But Paul, bound in chains, to 
Rome must go, and from that day to this, the 
"Eternal City" has been the centre of the most 
bitter religious controversies the world has ever 
witnessed. The glimmering dawn looming up 
from beyond the eastern hills of Bethlehem, its 
gentle light growing brighter and brighter, gives 
evidence of a New Era, whose brightness shall 
penetrate the uttermost parts of the earth. 

At 10:30 p. M., I left Rome for Florence by the 
night express train. • 

I experienced a terrible night of it, the heat 
being excessively oppressive, and for the first 
time during my trip through Italy, found the car 
crowded and uncomfortable ; I essayed to sleep, 
but with the exception of a few " cap naps," I 
met with indifferent success. 

At 7 A. m., I arrived in the beautiful city of 
Florence. Its situation is peculiarly happy, in 
the vale of Arno which forms one continued 
interchange of garden and grove, encldsed by 
hills and distant mountains. 

Its public buildings are fine, though all mod- 
ern. Being surpassed by those of Rome, they no 
longer excite any peculiar interest. 

The environs of Florence are nearly as roman- 
tic as those of Rome, and whose * ' Etrurian 
shades high over-arched embower" has been 
rendered classical by the immortal verse of Mil- 
ton, who is supposed to have drawn from it his 
picture of Paradise, when he describes it — < 



46 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



" Shade above shade 

A woody theatre of stateliest view." 

More remote, and approaching to the greatest 
height of the Appennines, the sacred hermitage 
of Camaldoli stands in a valley. Fourteen miles 
higher up, amid the most solitary and savage 
recesses of the Appennine Mountains, is the 
Franciscan Convent of Lavernia, containing 80 
friars. It is seated on a lofty rock, broken into 
numberless pinnacles, while thick groves, rising 
to the summit and nodding over the steps, cast 
a rich and mellow shade upon the whole scene. 

As the afternoon wore away, I found myself 
growing quite sick, probably from the constant 
strain and excitement resting on my nervous 
system, so returning to my hotel I was advised 
to keep quiet and seek rest, which I accordingly 
did. After invigorating exhausted nature with 
a small medicinal application, I felt somewhat 
revived, 'but nevertheless kept quiet until the 
following morning, when I availed myself of the 
invitation extended to me from Mr. Tilden of 
Boston, whose private residence is charmingly 
situated on the outskirts of Florence ; arriving 
at his villa I was introduced to his amiable wife 
and daughter, whom I found to be excellent 
company and most thoroughly accomplished. 
From thence, accompanied by my guide, I enjoyed 
one of the most delightful rides through «the 
surrounding country, which is truly charm- 
ing. 

The next day being Saturday, and as I had got 
quite enough of sight seeing in the city of Flor- 
ence, I set out for Venice at 7 P. m., via fast 
express train. 

The morning was serene and beautiful, not a 
cloud to be seen in the horizon, and a fine car all 
to myself. 
e As we pass through the country the scenery is 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 



47 



rich and varied, every foot of which teems with 
historic interest. 

On arriving at the station at Venice, when pas- 
sing through the entrance, commissionaires will 
be seen who will escort the traveler into the 
hotel, and a gondolier takes his baggage tickets 
and procure his baggage. 




VIEW IN VENICE. 

The city of Venice, "Queen of the Adriatic," 
is unrivalled as to beauty and situation. It stands 
on a bay near the Gulf of Venice, built upon 72 
islands, with its numberless domes and towers, 
spires and pinnacles, presenting the appearance 
of a vast city floating on the bosom of the ocean. 
The row of magnificent but decaying palaces, 
which extend along the grand canal, with their 
light, arabesque balconies and casements, their 
marble porticoes and peculiar chimneys, present 
one of the most superb and singular scenes in the 
world. They stand in majesty of ruin, and 
exhibit the most affecting combinations of former 
splendor with present decay ; and as Lord Byron 
so beautifully expresses it : 

" My beautiful, my own 
My only Venice— this is breath ! Thy breeze, 



48 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



Thy Adrian sea-breeze, how it fans my face ! 
The very winds feel native to my veins, 
And cool them into calmness I" 

The most commanding objects are those round 
the square of St. Mark, the most magnificent 
public place in Italy. The church of St. Mark 
rivals in splendor any edifice in that country or 
in Europe. But this pomp is gloomy and barbaric; 
the fine domes which swell from its roof, the 
crowded decorations which cover its porticoes, 
give it the appearance of an Eastern Pagoda. 

The Rial^to '* where merchants most do con- 
gregate," as Shakespeare expresses it, consists of 
a bold marble arch thrown over the most mag- 
nificent part of the great canal, exciting universal 
admiration. 

Ponte de' Sospiri, or "Bridge of Sighs," im- 
mortalized by Byron in the fourth canto of Childe 
Harold : 

•• I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs ; 
A palace and a prison on each hand ; 
I saw from out the waves her structure rise, 
As from the stroke of the enchanter's wand ; 
A thousand years their cloudy wings expand 
Around me, and a dying glory smiles 
O'er the far times, when many a subject land 
Look'd to the winged lion's marble piles. 
Where Venice sat in state, throned on her hundred 
isles." 

Criminals were conveyed across this bridge to 
hear their sentence, and from there led to their 
execution ; hence its melancholy but appropriate 
name. 

The Grand Canal, which takes its serpentine 
course through the city, is intersected by 146 
smaller canals, over which there are 306 bridges. 
The gondola supplies the place of coaches, as 
carriage or even horseback riding is wholly out 
of the question here, the streets being so narrow, 
not usually over 4 or 5 feet wide. 

The gondola, is, therefore, the mode of convey- 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 49 



ance; it cuts its way so rapidly through the water, 
that in a short time you may be able to visit 
every part of the city. They are long, narrow, 
light vessels, painted black, containing in the 
centre a cabin nicely fitted up with glass win- 
dows, blinds, cushions, &c. Those belonging to 
private families are much more richly decorated. 
The price of their hire is four lire per day, and 
double that price should you wish two rowers. 
The most pleasant and healthy portion of Venice 
is in the vicinity of the Grand Canal, which is 
broad and deep, with magnificent palaces and 
churches on either side. Venice is a very reason- 
able place to reside in; rents are low, and living 
uncommonly cheap ; society is pleasant and un- 
restrained, and foreigners are well received, and 
usually much pleased. 

Sunday, September 1st, I started out at 5 .'SO 
A. m. , to visit the principal points of interest in 
the city and its churches, the most important of 
which is the Church of San Marco ; it is built in 
the form of a Greek cross, and nearly 600 pillars 
support the decorations inside and out. 

The walls of the interior are precious marble ; 
a mosaic of the Virgin of St. Mark is over the 
central door, and to the right a basin composed 
of prophyry, supported by a Greek altar, con- 
taining holy water. 

The altar table in the baptistery is formed from 
a granite slab, upon which our Saviour is sup- 
posed to have stood when he preached to the 
inhabitants of Tyre, and brought from that city 
in 1126. 

The sacristy, entered by a door at the 
side of the altar, contains many precious relics, 
rich jewelry, and a piece of our Saviour's 
dress. 

Gliding along the smooth waters in our gon- 
dola, while the sun is going down in picturesque 



50 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



grandeur over the broad waves of the Adriatic, 
we stop to listen to the boatman's song. , 

The balmy breeze gently ruffles the deep blue 
waters as we rock upon its bosom listening, 
while our oarsman silently keep time with 
their oars to the song of the Venetian Gondoliers, 
whom, as Ave approach, demand a fee, which we 
cheerfully give. 

Twilight steals in upon us, the vesper chimes 
ring soft and sweet, melt in low cadence on the 
shore, proclaiming the vesper hour, and we hear 
the evening hymn to the Virgin borne on the 
balmy breeze. 

At 9 A. m., I left Venice for Milan, passing 
through a delightful country, whose beautiful 
scenery rivets the attention of the traveler, 
bordered all along to our left by the Alps, as far 
as the eye could reach. I arrived at 3 :45 P. M. 




MILAN AND THE CATHEDRAL. 



-Milan is a noble city, situated in a rich plain, 
watered by the river Po, and is entered by ten 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 



51 



gates, the richest one, and the most remarkable, 
i^ the Porta Orientale. The city is nearly 8 miles 
in circumference, and, like most ancient cities, 
irregularly laid out. It is principally noted for 
its magnificent cathedral, which astonishes and 
enchants the beholder. 

Fear not that you are expecting more grandeur 
and beauty than you will realize, for that is 
impossible. 

Its forest of pinnacles, its wilderness of tracery, 
delicately marked against the grey sky, is con- 
structed entirely of white marble from the quar- 
ries of Gandoglia, beyond Lake Maggiore, and 
the edifice itself is built in the form of a Latin 
cross, and is said to contain over 4,400 statues. 

The roof is reached by ascending a flight of 
160 steps, and at sunset, beneath an Italian sky, 
the view is perfectly magnificent. 

" All its hues 
From the rich Biinset to the rising star, 
Their magical variety diffuse ; 
And now they change ; a pale shadow strews 
It's mantle o'er the mountains ; parting day 
Dies like the dolphin, whom each pang imbues 
With a new color as it gasps away, 
The last still loveliest, till— tis gone, and all is grey." 

The theatre, Delia Scala, is considered the 
finest in Italy. 

At 6:20 I left Milan and arrived at Arona, a 
small town situated on the borders of one of 
Italy's fairest lakes, Lake Maggiore, the scenery 
of which is exquisitely beautiful, that toward the 
Alps being bold and mountainous, while toward 
the south it is less steep. 

Here I remained over night, retiring early, as 
I had to catch the first boat in the morning. At 
4:30 A. M., I left Arona, via steamer, for a six 
mile sail on the Lake. I shall never forget he 
beauty of the scene, as the sun rose, lighting up 



52 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



peak after peak of the glorious Alps, whose sum- 
mits, crowned with snow, glittered in the resplen- 
dent glory of the morning sun. At 6 A. M. , i 
landed at Stresa, where you connect with the 
diligence which crosses the Alps. I was just in 
time and fortunate in procuring a good seat. The 
driver mounts his box, bids the hostler adjust 
some disarrangement of the harness ; the off 
horse paws the ground impatiently and gives a 
frightful plunge, which, coming so unexpectedly 
and sudden, nearly upsets a portly Englishman 
perched by my side on the top of the diligence, 
who was then just in the act of lighting a 
cigar, but failed in the attempt, much to the no 
small amusement of a congregation of urchins 
collected by the inn door, who sent up a shout of 
derisive laughter at his expense. I 

In the midst of which, crack goes the whip and 
away we go, leaving the little village and its rus- 
tic populace behind us, and rattling over an old 
moss covered bridge, we begin our ascent of the 
Alps. 

The ascent commences almost immediately 
after leaving the town, and, passing through 
green meadows, it approaches the Gorge of 
Saltine, where the torrent is seen rushing down 
the valley, amid bristling rocks and rugged 
embankments. ^ 

Passing the First Refuge, a beautiful view of 
the Rhone Valley is seen ; here we breathe our 
horses and again start off. Two and a half miles 
the Second Refuge is passed, and pausing for a 
moment to rest the animals, we obtain another 
fine view. The road now bends around the 
valley of the Gauter and crosses the Gauter 
Bridge, which is so much exposed to avalanches 
and fearful gusts of wind, that it is left uncovered 
for fear it would be carried away during the 
winter storms. Accompanied by my guide I 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 53 



took a short cut and enjoyed the mountain 
climbing. 



ASCENDING THE ALPS WITH MY GUIDE. 

The Third Refuge is reached, where fresh post 
horses are kept. A magnificent view of the 
valley and the Bernese Alps attracts the attention 
of the traveler, and arriving at the Fifth Refuge 
a picture of rugged and barren desolation sur- 
rounds the traveler; vegetation has almost ceased, 
and the eye roams from rock to glacier, while the 
roaring cataract fills up the picture of rugged and 
barren grandeur. 

From this point to the summit is the most 
dangerous part of the road. At the Sixth Refuge 
a cross marks the highest point of the Pass, 6,628 
feet above the level of the sea. About half a 
mile and we reach a place for refreshments, called 
the Hospice, a similar establishment to that of the 
Great St. Bernard, founded by Napoleon I. En- 
tertainment is gratuitous, but visitors are expected 



54 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



to put as much, if not more, into the poor box, 
than a similar entertainment would cost him in 
an inn. 

Passing the Seventh Refuge we arrive at Sim- 




WAGON KOAD OF NAPOLEON. 

plon. The road now passes through the Gallery 
of Oonda, the longest tunnel of the Simplon, over 
700 feet in length, hewn out of the solid rock. As 
we pass further on, the Falls of Fressinone dash 
with. its ceaseless roar wildly through the gorge 
of rocks that rise almost perpendicular to the 
height of 2,000 feet. Then we pause to .get 
down and view the terrible grandeur of the scene. 

" And you, ye crags, upon whose extreme edge 
I stand, and on the torrents brink beneath 
Behold ! the tall pines dwindling into shrubs, 
In dizziness of distance ; when a leap, 
Astir, a motion, even a breath, would bring 
My breast upon its rocky bosom's bed 
To rest forever." 

A few moments and we are off again, and at 
length reach Gondo, the first Swiss village, where 
an old tower is used for an inn, and beyond a 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 55 



granite column on the left of the road, marks the 
Italian frontier, which, upon passing, we find 
ourselves in Switzerland. 

Below us the country assumes a new aspect, 
and we suddenly find ourselves transferred as if 
by magic, from savage, wild and rugged grand- 
eur, to tressled vines, green chestnuts, gray 
olives and balmy air. 

This celebrated route which we have just 
crossed has been made memorable for all time 
from the fact of its having been built under the 
decree of the Emperor Napoleon I. 

After the battle of Marengo, with the bitter 
experience of his former difficult attempt in 
crossing the Alps with his army, and the loss of 
so many of his brave soldiers amid the snows 
and glaciers of the Alps, he determined to have 
a great military road to Italy, and ordered the 
stupendous undertaking to be commenced, which 
was considered at the time to be one of the 
greatest achievments of modern engineering skill. 

It commenced at Geneva and ended at Milan, 
and eost about three and a half million of dollars, 
requiring the labor of over 30,000 men to com- 
plete the work. 

At 9 P. M., the diligence brought us all safe to 
Briez, of which we were right heartily glad, being 
very fatigued with the journey. 

As we looked back and saw the Alps bathed in 
a flood of moonlight, their grandeur seemed even 
more sublime than if viewed in the day. Briez 
is a small town of about 800 inhabitants, situated 
at the base of the Simplon. 

At 7.20 next morning I left Briez for Martigny. 
Never will I forget this delightful railroad ride. 
It was just after a very hard storm ; the atmos- 
phere was pure and delicious, and the scenery 
bright and glorious ; on one side of the railroad 
flowed a beautiful river, and on the other, a long 



56 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



range of Alpine scenery, from amidst which Mont 
Blanc could be seen towering above all others. 

Peak after peak looming up, crowned with 
their canopy of eternal snow, reflected their sil 
very sheen in the bright rays of the morning sun, 
while around me, Elysian fields, tressled vine- 
yards and the Swiss cottages here and there peep- 
ing out from the Alpine "mountain heights, paint* 
ed a picture on my memory akin to that my im- 
agination would portray of Paradise. I was anx- 
ious to ascend Mont Blanc, and reaching Mar- 
tigny at 9.30 a. m., I met with a number of trav- 
elers pursuing the journey on foot, preferring to 
take in the scenery at their leisure, and perhaps, 
also, on the score of economy. It costs 12 francs 
for a horse, and 12 francs for a guide, or a car- 
riage can be hired for 40 francs. 

As I am not over fond of walking, particularly 
a distance of 27 miles, and had got tired of horse- 
back riding on my ascent of Mount Vesuvius, I 
concluded I would hire a wagon. 

A party of Englishmen hailing from London, 




HOTEL CLEKC, MAETIGNT. 

and with whom I had taken breakfast, 



boasted 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 57 



considerably of their ability of reaching the 
mountain as soon as I could with my guide 
and conveyanoe. I only laughed at their prov- 
erbial "blowing," and assured them I would 
give them two hours start and beat them at that. 

So away they started on their journey, a jolly 
rollicking party, the true typical representatives 
of Mr. John Bull. 

All things being in readiness, and nothing of 
particular interest to detain me any longer here, 
I started off for Mont Blanc. The road proceeds 
in a zig-zag direction, now to the left, then to the 
right. Now traversing a wild ravine, and up the 
steep declivity to a Swiss hamlet, which we leave 
and press onward. 

It is 4 p. M. when we reach a roadside inn ; our 
horses are tired, and the guide suggests an hour's 
stop, to rest and feed the animals, and recuperate 
our flagging energies. 

To this I readily consented, and as I entered 
the inn my eyes lighted upon my English wor- 




BOAD SIDE INN ON THE ALPS. 

Hero I met the three "Red Noses." 

thies, seated around a table discussing the merits 
of a bottle of champagne, while the formidable 



58 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



array of empty dishes and disordered table plain- 
ly indicated that fearful havoc had, in all proba- 
bility, been made upon sundry chunks of roast 
beef, a few ribs of which alone were left to tell 
the tale. 

" Hallo, there ! " *ays I. 

" Hi, yi ! my heyes, is that you," ejaculated one 
of them., with good round paunch, and a jolly red 
nose. 

" Well, I declare," added his elbow neighbor. 

"You must have slid down here from some 
Alpine glacier on the mountains." 

" Not a bit of it," replied I. 

" You don't know me — always ahead <*f time — 
come John — Charley — Henry — or whatever your 
name is," addressing a diminutive Swiss specimen 
of humanity who wore. a smock coat and a little 
white apron. " Dance around now, and get me 
something to eat." 

At this my English friends roared out, but I 
did not catch the joke. 

"Ha, say, you'll 'av to warble to 'im in the 
sweet accents of the Tyrol." 

Nothing abashed, and enjoying my newly dis- 
covered difficulty, I cried out: 

' ' Gominze here, habinze dinnare for me," with 
a terrible effort at foreign pronounciation. 

Another guffaw burst forth from the throats of 
the Englishmen. 

"That's very good for German," says one. 
" Now twist your tongue around to a longitude 
of twenty degrees west of Greenwich, and gently 
touch it up with a little of the Swiss dialect." 

" Give it up," cried I, in despair, and slashing 
down my slouch hat, 1 strode for the door and 
beckoned for my guide. 

"You see, gentlemen, there's no use of trying 
to bluff Beatty;why, six months from now, some 
of your daughters will be playing away for dear 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 59 



life on a Beatty Piano in the adjoining parlor " 
' My heyes ! " retorted our worthy possessor 
of the red nose. "Perhaps you'll be hoisting 
one on top of the Pyramids of Egypt next." 

" Yes," cried I. " Can't *ejl gentlemen— can't 
tell — stranger things than that have happened," 
saying which, I proceeded to instruct my guide, 
who could speak English, what I desired, and 
drawing a chair up to where they were seated, 
accepted| a proffered glass of water, upon receiv- 
ing which, I rose reverentially as they proposed a 
toast. 

" By hall means, by hall means, Mr. Beetee," 
cried one. 

y The Beatty Piano and Organ for ever, gentle- 
men," cried another. 

They all drank the toast, amid the expostula- 
tion of one blink-eyed gentleman to the right, 
who wheezed out asthmatically. 

" To blazes with yer Horgans, let's 'av a toast 
what is a toast; saying which, all hands 
filled up again, and he rose slowly from his seat. 

"Gentlemen, 'eres to Hold Hingland;" saying 
which, they all drank with reverence. 

At this juncture my dinner was announced, and 
I left our worthy Johnny Bulls to continue their 
convivial repast, while I adjourned to an inner 
apartment, free from the noise and bustle of the 
inn, and where it was more congenial to my own 
taste. As I gazed out of my tressled window the 
magnificence of the scenery was truly enchanting. 
Hundreds of feet below I espy the winding silver 
thread of what appears to be a little meandering 
brook, but which in reality is a wide flowing 
river, and down in the valley clustering houses 
and a church nestled and half concealed amid 
foliage and jutting promontories of mossy rocks. 

Above me, still further, the glaciers of the 
Alps look down upon me in their majesty, as 



60 DANIEL F. BEATTT'S 



though laughing at the feeble efforts of man to 
scale their dizzy heights. From my window I 
discern my English friends walking up the road 
at a brisk pace, and laughing heartily among 
themselves. 

The hour of respite having expired, I am again 
seated in my conveyance ready to pursue my jour- 
ney, but this time I have a companion, a beautiful 
young lady, for whom my host has interceded, 
and of course I accede, as it adds additional 
interest to have so agreeable a companion with 
whom I could converse, interchange ideas, and 
enjoy, with mutual admiration, the scenery before 
us. 

On leaving the inn, the road clings close to the 
mountain, and further on we pass through a dark 
tunnel, from which emerging, and urging on our 
horses, we soon overtake our English travellers, 
and exchanging salutations, we pass on, soon 
leaving them far in the distance. Now the road 
takes a turn, crosses a rustic bridge over a swift 
cataract that roars and plunges down a steep 
precipice and is lost sight of amid the shrubs, 
boulders and pines of the rugged mountain, and 
a village beyond over which seems to hang, as it 
were, huge mountains of ice and snow, as though 
a breath might cause it to break away and de- 
scending in one swift avalanche, spread, ruin and 
devastation before it, At this point we leave 
our horses and proceed with our guide on foot. 

At length, by 8.30 we reach 

CHAMOUNIX. 

This lovely retreat, once so secluded and almost 
unknown, is now the favorite resort, and rivals 
Niagara or Saratoga in all the excitement and 
bustle of a favorite summer resort. 

After paying and dismissing my guide and 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 61 



conveyance I repaired to my hotel, located in a 
beautiful portion of the town, fully satisfied with 
my journey from Martiney to Chamounix. Hav- 
ing rested for an hour or so and partaken of some 
refreshments, I again sally forth — and whom 
shouid I encounter but my portly friend with the 
red nose and his three English companions, who, 
decidedly tired, weary, and foot sore, were sorry, 
I warrant, for not taking my advice and hiring a 
conveyance. The next* morning I awoke full of 
enthusiasm, eager for fresh ventures. From the 
windows of the hotel I could obtain a splendid 
view of Mont Blanc, and with the aid of a power- 
ful telescope could even discern people ascending 
its steep sides, bound for its ice-capped summit. 

At 7.30 I have decided to ascend "Mer de 
Glace " — the sea of ice — which I had viewed 
from the top of Mount Blanc the previous day ; 
so procuring me a fresh guide and a mule, away 
we go, in company with a celebrated physician of 
Boston and some twenty ladies and gentlemen, 
all bent on the same journey. 

Oo, on, on, we go up the mountain side, our 
mules first on one side then on the other; now 
near the edge of some dangerous precipice, from 
which I would turn my head in dizziness, and 
again hugging close to the rocky boulders that 
jut out as though to intercept us on our path. 
The Doctor was mounted on a splendid animal — 
all white, and named Mont Blanc. He was a 
fine leader, and nothing could induce him to go 
but just so fast. 

" Now, Mont Blanc," says the Doctor, address- 
ing his mule, " you are a noble animal, you have 
not stumbled once. I have great confidence in 
you — see that you keep up your reputation." 

And the dumb brute, as though conscious of 
the compliment' paid him, pricked up his ears and 
jogged along with a sure and steady gait. 



62 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



From the lieiglit of Montauvert we saw the Mer 
de Glace shining in the morning sun, and saw a 
party crossing on the other side. 

In half an hour more we found ourselves cross- 




MER DE GLACE OR 6EA OF ICE. 

ing the Mer de Glace, and were delighted at the 
extraordinary spectacle presented. At the place 
where we stood, the pressure from the snow above 
had caused the ice to mass itself together in 
heaps, and to assume the most remarkable shapes; 
grotesque forms of ice, irregular and jagged, 
piled up one above another, bearing a resem- 
blance to transparent towers, and again like so 
many ice witches and hobgoblins huddled to- 
gether in wild fantastic groups, with here and 
there some lofty column looming up, followed by 
a long range, like the broken and dismantled 
ramparts of some ruined city, while some giant 
shaft of ice looming over the rest suddenly disap- 
pears under the magic wand of the sun's warm 
rays and toppling over is precipitated into the 
abyss below with a roar resembling subterranean 
thunder. 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 63 



At 3.15 p.m., I find myself safe back to my 
hotel. In the evening I took a stroll out into the 
streets of this old and picturesque town, but re- 
tired early, as at 7 A. m. the next morning I set 
out for Geneva. All along from Chamounix to 
Geneva an extended panorama of the Alps pre- 
sents itself, and from amid its long extended 
range lifts the snow capped peaks of Mont 
Blanc. 

Now, the ascent becomes extremely difficult 
so clutching the rope tied to my guide's side, 
with a tighter hold, and planting my pole into 
the crust of snow, I began the more difflcnlt part 
of my laborious journey. One runs the continual 
danger of slipping and falling while climbing 
over the icy billows, and occasionally finding 
oneself upon the brink of a wide crevice in a 
mass of ice two or three hundred feet deep, 
across which one must leap, without any other 
foothold tban a smooth icy wave or hillock. As 
I looked down the broad fissures and yawning 
chasms, I felt as though I could go no further; my 
guide encouraged me with the assurance that we 
had passed the most difficult part, but I found it 
no easy task climbing alongside of a perpendicu- 
lar rock, without anything to hold on to but the 
rope from my guide, following a narrow ledge 
cut in the rocks, midway between two perpen- 
dicular walls, the one above me and the other 
below, from which dizzy height I see the Mer-de- 
Glace dazzling my eyes with its bright reflec- 
tions. 

The guide now advised me to hasten, because 
the stones were being frequently precipitated 
from the rocks above, and should they clog our 
narrow pathway where one can scarcely turn, or 
should even a gust of wind come howling down 
the steep declivity, we would be plunged in the 
frightful depths below. Above me I gaze with 



64 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



terror upon the heavy masses of rock hanging 
over my head, as they appeared just ready to 
fall. " Nay ! on ! on ! cries the guide, as he pulls 
my slipping feet up the crumbling debris, and I 
inwardly pray for deliverance from what would 
be certain death should I falter. A few minutes 




HOTEL NEAR THE BEA OF ICE. 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 65 



more, and we reach the summit. 1 felt unspeak- 
ably thankful that I had overcome the dangers 
that had surrounded me on every side. The 
sinking sun lit up the snow-capped peaks in the 
gold and purple grandeur of the dying day. 
Mont Blanc and the Col de Balme vied with each 
other in their majestic splendor, standing forth 
in all their grand and silent sublimity, whose very 
silence proclaims from generation to generation, 
the glory, greatnes, and majesty of our great 
Creator. The descent, though less toilsome, is 
still dangerous ; so slowly and carefully picking 
our way down the rugged rocks, jumping deep 
chasms, and toiling through the snow and ice we 
finally reach our horses, which mounting, we 
travel over another fearful road, washed out by 
the late storm, and commence our descent con- 
siderably faster than we went up. 

Some conception of its immense height can be 
had viewed from this distance. The view of the 
Alps, however, from this point is rather tame 
compared to the Simplon Pass route. 

At 2 P. M. I arrived at Geneva. The next morn- 
ing, " at early peep o' day," the day bidding fair 
to be fine, I was up and enjoyed a fine walk on 
the shores of the beautiful Lake of Geneva. 

My French money, with which I had provided 
myself in London, now gave out, and part of the 
day was consumed in arranging my financial 
affairs, and purchasing my tickets for Germany, 
Belgium, and Holland. 

I had already secured my ticket from Geneva 
back to Paris before leaving France for Italy, but 
this I could sell again, and so I determined to ex- 
tend my travels through Germany. 

Having arranged my plans accordingly, I con- 
tinued my tour of inspection. 

Geneva is beautifully situated at the southern ex- 
tremity of Lake Geneva. The river Rhone divides 



66 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



tlie city into two parts, and is connected by six 
bridges. 




HOTEL DE LA MATROPOLE, GENEVA. 

As you drive on the left side of the lake you 
pass Diodati, the villa of Lord Byron during his 
residence in Switzerland in 1816. It was called 
after a friend of the poet, who visited him here. 
During his residence here, it is said he composed 
his tragedy of Manfred, and his third Canto of 
Childe Harold. 

Near the lake is the villa of Sir Robert Peel, 
and another formerly occupied by the Empress 
Josephine. 

On the road to Chateau Rothschild, about 4% 
miles from Geneva is Ferney, which contains the 
chateau formerly occupied by Voltaire, the great 
French Infidel, whose writings have cursed the 
earth with their false doctrines. 

At 11 A. M. (of the next day), I departed for 
Berne, the capital of Switzerland. It stands in a 
beautiful position on the left bank of the river Aar. 
The town derives its name from Baren, the Ger- 
man for bears, that being the figure or emblem on 
there crests and armorials bearings of the Canton. 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. G7 



The natives of Berne worship bears much the 
same as the natives of Constantinople worships 
pidgeons, or the natives of Egypt are said to wor- 
ships cats. For many centuries numerous bears 
were kept at the expense of the city, and a certain 
fund is now devoted for that purpose. 

The principal building is the Cathedral, which 
contains one of the largest organs in the world, 
upon which I heard *' The Storm at Sea," per- 
formed by their celebrated organist, and which 
was truly impressive and grand. From the old 
cemetery of the cathedral, covered with fine shady 
trees, from an elevation of over 100 feet above 
the river, a splendid view of Berne can always be 
had. 

Having seen all of interest in this city, I left at 
6 a. m. , the next day for Frankfort-on-the-Main. 

Arriving at Basle, our baggage is again over- 
hauled by the government officials. A very sin- 
gular eustom prevails in this city — that of keep- 
ing their clocks one hour in advance of those in 
other cities; one reason given for the curious 
practice is that the attempt of an enemy to sur- 
prise the city was defeated by the town clock 
striking one instead of twelve; the conspirators 
in the town thinking they were an hour too late, 
failed to keep their appointment. The citizens 
ever after kept their clocks an hour ahead of time. 
From here we proceed on our journey to Heidel- 
berg. It is one of the principal towns of Baden, 
and contains 20,100 inhabitants, one-third of 
whom are Catholics. The principal point of in- 
terest is the Castle of Heidelberg, founded in the 
14th century, which combines the double character 
of palace and fortress. The cellars of the Castle 
are very extensive, capable of holding 800 hogs- 
heads of wine. In front of the Castle is a wooden 
statue of the Court fool, Porkes, who never went 
to bed sober, and always on a short allowance of 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



from 15 to 18 bottles daily. From the terrace and 
garden most magnificent views may be obtaiued. 




COURT YARD, HEIDELBERG CASTLE. 

The Church of the Holy Ghost is a singular 
building, divided in the centre by a partition run- 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 69 



ning the whole length of the church, and the two 
services, Catholie and Protestant, are performed 
under the same roof. 

The University of Heidelberg is one of the most 
celebrated, and ranks equal with Vienna and 
Prague. From here we proceed to Frankfort - 
on-the-Main, which we reach at 8.30 p. m. 

This city is one of the most ancient; Charla- 
magne had a palace here, and held a council with- 
in its walls in 794, and a century later it became 
the capital of Germany. It is the native place of 
Rothschild, the richest banker in the world. The 
house where he was born, No. 148 Judengasse 
(Jews Street) is still shown. 

The* Cathedral is an ancient edifice, commenced 
in the 13th century. 

Outside of the Friedberg gate is situated the 
colossal mass of granite rocks grouped together 
in memory of the Hessians who fell defending 
Frankfort, the whole surmounted by a military 
device taken from the French. It was erected by 
the king of Prussia. 

In front of the theatre (a very fair one) is a 
monumental statue, erected to Germany's most 
celebrated poet — Goethe. 

The house where he was born is situated at 
No. 74 in the Hirschgraben, and his father's coat 
of arms — three lyres — over the door. 

A magnificent bronze statue of Schiller, the 
poet, was erected on Schillerplatz in 1864. 

The monument to Gutteriberg, the inventor of 
printing, is situated on the Ross Markt. 

The central figure, with the types in his left 
hand is Guttenberg, on his right stands Faust and 
on his left Schoff er. The home of Martin Luther 
is situated in the Domplatz, the greatest leader in 
the Reformation, and to whom the world is in- 
debted for the Protestant Religion freed from the 
superstition of the dark ages. 



70 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



The ancient fortifications have been converted 
into public gardens, which are one of the great- 
est attractions in the city. 

At 7 a. M. I left Frankfort for Mayence, which 
is a city of great antiquity. It was founded by 
Drusus 14 years B. C. 

Among the principal edifices of Mayence which 
are of great antiquity, is the Cathedral, a vast pile 
of red sandstone, began in the tenth and finished 
in the eleventh century. A site formerly occupied 
by the dwelling house of Guttenberg, the inventor 
of printing, a native of the town, is seen with 
interest. 

At 9.20 A. M. I stepped on board the steamer 
for a sail down the river Rhine to Cologne. 

It happened very fortunate for me that this 
steamer, one of the fastest in Europe, was used 
as an express between Mayence and Cologne, a 
distance of 117 miles, as it makes only two stops 
on the way. On taking a way boat, one must 
make at least 30 stops. The passage down the 
river Rhine is replete with interest, being the 
most picturesque river in the world. 

Here one sees clustering vineyards covering 
steep and shore, and interlacing the most roman- 
tic ruins. ' Nowhere is the vine cultivated to a 
greater extent. The humblest peasant has Ids 
square yard of vineyard, and every accessible 
spot is covered with this favorite plant. 

The well-known "Hock" wine, erroneously 
applied to all German wines, is grown eastward 
of Mayence. 

As we pass the Seven Sisters a heavy thunder 
storm sprang up, which lasted but a short time, 
however, as the sun soon shone out as bright as 
ever, and the foliage on either side brightened 
into a deeper emerald, and added to the charm oi 
the scene. 

As we pass down the Rhine, the ruins of Eh- 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 71 



renfels rise in the distance beyond, immortalized 
by the celebrated poet, Southey, in the following 
tradition : 

•* The summer and autumn hath boen so wet. 
That in winter the corn was growing yet ; 
'Twas a piteous sight, to see all around 
The grain lie rotting on the ground. 

Every day the starving poor 
Crowded around Bishop Hatto's door, 
For he had a plentiful last year's store ; 
And all the neighborhood could toll 
His granaries were iurnish'd well. 

At last Bishop Hat to appointed a day 

To quiet the poor without delay ; 

He bade them to his great barn repair, . 

And they should have food for the winter there. 

Rejoiced at such tidings, good to hear, 
The poor folk fiock'd trom far and near ; 
The great barn was full as it could hold 
Of women and children, and young and old. 

Then when he saw it could hold no more, 
Bishop Hatto he made fast the door ; 
And while for mercy on Christ they call, 
He set fire to the. barn and burnt them all. 

• I' faith 'tis an excellent bonfire !' quote he, 
' And the country is greatly obliged to me 
For ridding it, in these times forlorn, 
Of rats that only consume the corn.' 

So then to the palace returned he, 
And he sat down to his supper merrily ; 
And he slept that night like an innocent man, 
But Bishop Hatto never slept again. 

In the morning, as he entered the hall, 
Where his picture hung against the wall, 
A sweat like death all o'er him came, 
For the rats had eaten it out of the irame. 

As he look'd, there came a man from his farm. 
He had a countenance white with alarm, 
' My lord, I opened your granaries this morn, 
And the rats had eaten all your corn.' 



72 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



Another came running presently, 
And he was as pale as pale could be ; 
' Fly, my lord bishop, fly,' quoth he, 

• Ten thousand rats are coming this way, 
The Lord forgive you for yesterday ! ' 

• I'll go to my tower on the Rhine,' replied he ; 

• 'Tis the safest place in all Germany ; 

The walls are high, and the shores are steep, 
And the stream is strong and the waters deep.' 

Bishop Hatto fearfully hasten 'd away, 
And he crossed the Rhine without delay 
And reach'd his tower, and barred with cure 
All the windows, doors, and loop holes there. 

He laid him down, and closed his eyes; 

But soon a scream made him arise; 

He started and saw two eyes of flame 

On his pillow, 'from whence the screaming came. 

He listened and look'd: it was only the cat, 
But the Bishop he grew more fearful for that; 
For she sat screAiiing, mad with fear, 
At the army of rats that were drawing near. 

For they have swum over the river so deep. 
And they have climbed the shores so steep, 
And now by thousands up they crawl 
To the holes and windows in the wall. 

Down on his "knees the Bishop fell, 

And faster and faster his beads did he tell 

As louder and louder, drawing near 

The saw of their teeth without he eould hear. 

And in at the windows, and in at the door, 
And through the walls hy thousands they pour, 
And down through the ceiling, and up through the 

floor, 
From the right and the left, from behind and before, 
From within and without, from above and below — 
And all at once te the Bishop they go. 

They have whetted their teeth against the stones, 
And now they pick the Bishop's bones; 
They gnaw'd the flesh from every limb, 
For they were sent to do judgment on him," 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 73 



At 4.20 P. m. I arrived at Cologne. It is the 
third city in the Prussian kingdom. It is built 
in the form of a crescent close by the borders of 



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COLOGNE, PRUSSIA. 

the river Rhine, and strongly fortified, the walls 
forming a circuit of nearly seven miles. 

The chief glory of Cologne is its magnificent 
Cathedral, which is one of the finest specimens 
of Gothic architecture in the world. Although 
commenced in the year 1248, it is still unfinished ; 
nearly $2,000,000 have been expended on it by 
the kings of Prussia during the last 40 years. 
Behind the high altar is the Chapel of the Magi, 
or the three kings of Cologne. 

It contains the bones of the three wise men of 
the east, who journeyed to Bethlehem bearing 
presents to the infant Christ. The skulls of the 
Magi, crowned with diamonds, with their names 
written in rubies. Among the numerous relics 
in the sacristy is a bone of St. Matthew. 

The Church of St. Ursula is one of the most 
remarkable sights in this city. The tradition 
runs, that St. Ursula, daughter to the King of 
Brittany, accompanied by 11, 000 virgins, ascended 
the Rhine, on their pilgrimage to the Holy City. 
On *heir return the whole party was barbarously 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



murdered by the Huns because they refused to 
break their vows of chastity, and the bones of all 
the attendant virgins were gathered together, 
and the present church erected to contain them. 

In every direction these hideous relics stare 
you in the face. St. Ursula herself is exhibited 
in a coffin, which is surrounded by the skulls of 
a few of her favorite attendants. The room in 
which she is laid also contains many other relics, 
among these are the chains with which St. Peter 
was bound, and one of the clay vessels used by 
the Saviour at the marriage of Cana. 

The well-known perfume, Eau de Cologne, is 
manufactured here, and is exported in large 
quantities. My impressions were not very favor- 
able, from the fact that there does not appear to 
be any regard for the Sabbath day. 

Monday, Sept. 9th, at 9 A. m., I left Cologne 
for Brussels, the capital of Belgium, and beauti- 
fully situated on the river Senne, about 50 miles 
from the sea. The fortifications of a century ago 
have all been removed, and on their site beautiful 
boulevards and promenades have been made, 
planted with stately linden trees, extending near- 
ly five miles around the city. Four principal 
streets surround the park or palace garden, any of 
which it is difficult to surpass in any city in Eu- 
rope, the tout ensemble of the whole being truly 
charming. The Rue Bellevue containing the 
King's palace, the Rue Ducale, in which is the pal- 
ace of the Prince of Orange (the late King of 
Holland), the Rue Brabant and the Rue Royal e, 
on which are situated the finest mansions in 
Brussels; in fact the whole city, opera houses, 
theatres, squares, restaurants and cafes, is a min- 
iature Paris. 

Brussels contains several splendid Cathedrals, 
erected in the middle ages. 

The Cathedral of St. Gudale, is surmounted by 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 75 



two large square towers, from the top of which 
Antwerp is distinctly seen. The pulpit of the 
Cathedral is formed of wonderfully carved groups 
of figures representing the expulsion of Adam 
and Eve from Paradise; the figures are the size of 
life. The organ is remarkable for its depth and 
power of intonations and perfect unison. 

On a visit to the old palace the finest pictures 
in the world are on exhibition, principally Reu- 
bens and Corregios. The battle field of Waterloo, 
is 12 miles from the city. The field is now cov- 
ered with smiling corn, a conical mound 200 feet 
in height, and surmounted by a bronze figure of 
the Belgic lion, commemorates the events of June, 
1815, when Napoleon Bonaparte with a force of 
70,000 men confronted an English army of 140,- 
000 men and 380 pieces of cannon, under the 
Duke of Wellington. Out of thirteen of the 
greatest pitched battles recorded in history, Na- 
polean lost but two, the most unfortunate of 
which was fought here — the Battle of Waterloo. 

The next day I paid a visit to the old palace, 
situated near the Palais Royale. It was built in 
1300 and rebuilt in 1746. It now contains mu- 
seums, public libraries, galleries of paintings and 
sculpture, and a lecture-room. 

In the picture gallery there are some very fine 
paintings, especially those purchased by the City 
at the King of Holland's sale, and are the finest I 
ever inspected. 

One of the most novel scenes that I witnessed 
while gazing from the steeple of the Hotel de 
Ville, was whole troops of dogs harnessed to 
small carts, driven by peasant women, who, at 
that early hour in the morning, .come in from the 
adjacent country with their loads of farm truck, 
trudging along to market by the side of their 
canine teams. Such a yelping and barking as 
some of them set up, mingled -with the hooting 



76 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



of boys and scolding women. While some of 
these trained dogs, long inured to toil, seemed 
more sober than the rest; looking neither to right 




STREET SCENE. 



or left, they wear an air of responsibility, as if 
they had more at stake than their masters. 

At 2.30, 1 left Brussels for Antwerp, and as the 
distance is not great, arrived there in an hour. 
Antwerp, situated on the right bank of the Scheldt, 
is the chief port of Belgium. There are few 
places in Europe so rich in magnificent churches, 
and embellished by the most remarkable works 
of art, such as Reubens', Van Dyke's, Jordaen's 
and other great masters of painting, who were 
natives of Antwerp. The principal street, Place 
de Mere, rivals any in Europe. 

Nothing of particular interest attracting my 
attention here, I took train for Rotterdam. The 
town contains many charitable institutions, the 
central prison of the Netherlands, and many su- 
perior schools. Erasmus, the Reformer, was born 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 



77 



here in 14G7. The house of his birth is still pre- 
served, 
a-****** 

From here we take "steamer to Queensboro, 
where at 6.25 the next morning we arrive, 

Here we are obliged to submit to our baggage 
being overhauled previous to our trip to London, 
where we arrived safe and sound once more, 
having made the complete tour of the Continent 
in as short a space of time as it was possible, com- 
patible with ease and comfort. 

Here I am again in the great British metropo- 
lis, safely esconced at the Hotel Midland, where, 
after recuperating exhausted nature br a good 
rest, I concluded to give the City my entire at- 
tention before embarking for America. 




THAMES, LONDON. 

London, the home of our illustrious ancestors. 
Men of mighty genius, who have left their im- 
perishable and stupendous works behind them to 
enrich the coming ages with their wealth of ar- 
chitecture, science and art, palaces, cathedrals, 
towers and spires, hoary with age and enshrined 
in traditions. My first sally was to 



78 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 

"That antique pile, behold, 
Where royal heads receive the sacred gold ; 
It gives them crowns, and does their ashes keep. 
There, made like Gods, like mortals there they sleep, 
Making the circle of their reign complete — 
These suns of Empire, where they rise they set." 

This venerable pile, founded by one of the early 
Saxon kings, passing through all the vicissitudes 
of time, and ravages of war, still retains its an- 
cient grandeur. In this building the coronation 
of the Kings and Queens of England have been 
held. An attempt to describe all the historical 
relics, points of interest, and traditions attached to 
each, would fill volumes, The Poet's Corner, 
contains the monuments of Shakespeare, Milton, 
Addison, Sheridan, Garrick and many others. Its 
chapels, aisles and transepts are all filled whit 
monuments erected to England's brightest intel- 
lects, commemorative of their departed worth. ' 

It is with feelings of reverential awe that I 
passed through this venerable Cathedral, and 
gazed upon the sarcophagus containing the bones 
of Henry V., and his brother Richard, Duke of 
York, who were murdered by their cruel uncle 
Richard III, and passed on to the magnificent 
monument to the memory of Queen Elizabeth, 
and from there to the tomb of Anne, Queen of 
Denmark, and Henry, Prince of Wales. 

But turning from the splendid tombs of kings, 
princes and the nobility, I approach the plain 
and simple statue of John Wesley, the founder 
of Methodism, sculptured in pure marble, and 
placed upon a pedestal of Peterhead granite ; I 
read engraved thereon : 

" The best of all is, 
God is with us." 

which was one of the last utterances of this dis- 
tinguished divine, whom Southey, the poet 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 79 



laureate of England in those days, considered 
one of the greatest and purest of men. 

' ' A greater poet may rise than Homer or Mil- 
ton, a greater theologian than Calvin, a greater 
philosopher than Bacon, a greater dramatist than 
any of ancient or modern fame, but a more dis- 
tinguished revivalist of the churches than John 
Wesley, never." 

Amid all the pomp and splendor of sculptured 
marble that everywhere met my gaze in this 
grand old cathedral, none impressed itself upon 
my mind more than John Wesley's, because he 
was one of the principal architects that God used 
in the erection of that temple which is to be 
' ' built without hands " in the city of our God, 
and which will live ages upon ages after thp 
earth shall have crumbled away, and be no more 
forever. 

From Westminster I visited the Aquarium, 
and in the evening the Princes' Theatre, where 
I witnessed the representation of " Uncle Tom's 
Cabin," making me feel as though I was once 
more in America. 

The morning came, and with it the usual Lon- 
don fog. I was quite sick, and the dullness of 
the morning was in harmony with my feelings ; 
but reflecting that the time for my travels in for- 
eign lands was fast drawing to a close, I con- 
cluded to shake off my sickness, and remember- 
ing the suggestion of Mr. Douglass at my home 
office, to visit the Crystal Palace, I set out for the 
same, provided myself with the necessary piece 
of pasteboard from the box-office of the Under- 
ground Railroad, after paying the stipulated 
charge thereon, and betook myself to the cars, 
wherein I experienced my first sensation in riding 
through an underground railroad tunnel. Shut 
out from the world above, and with but little, 
if anything, to attract my attention in my sub- 



80 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



terraneous trip, I can't say I was particularly 
pleased, save that it was an expeditious way of 
arriving at my destination. I soon found myself 
viewing the wonders of nature and art under the 
brilliant dome of the Crystal Palace, but having 
viewed objects of interest to a greater extent in 
the Paris Exposition, I was not long in passing 
through its various departments. 

It occurred to me to visit Alexander Palace, 
but the ride occupies nearly an hour, and I was 
meditating whether I would attempt the journey, 
when the sight, however, of 500 sweet little or- 
phan children singing the sweet songs of Zion, 
led me to decide upon going, and which I after- 
wards found well repaid me for my trouble. 

I left the Midland Grand Hotel next day, and 
located at the Viaduct Hotel, it being more cen- 
tral, while the former I found too far on one side 
of the city. 

St. Paul's Cathedral next demanded my atten- 
tion, which is situated in the most central part of 
the metropolis. It stands on an elevated position 
at the end of Ludgate Hill, and its lofty dome 
may be seen for miles around. The magnificent 
deep tones of its great bell, which is only tolled 
on the occasion of a death in the royal family, can 
be heard far out of the city. 

Here rest the remains of the Duke of Welling- 
ton, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Admiral Nelson, 
whose motto, "Never give up the Ship," will 
ever be remembered. 

The choir is extremely beautiful, and rich in 
magnificent carvings. 

The next day 1 thought I would pay a visit to 
some of the English advertising agencies, for 
where one spends such large amounts of money 
in advertising, as is required in my business, it 
was a matter of special interest to me to un- 
derstand the English mode of transacting this 



TOUR IN FOREIGN IAND3. 81 



slass of business, and how It compared with the 
American system, in connection with which I vis- 
ited the principal daily papers in London, amply 
repaid me for my trouble, winding up my expedi- 
tion with a steamboat ride en the Thames, with 
which I was well pleased. 

Sunday I repaired to the Be v. Mr. Spurgeon's 
ehurch, and heard him preach. The text was 
taken from Matthew 1st chap. r and 21st verse. 

I was much pleased and edified by his sermon, 
and am not surprised that he won such a wide 
and well merited fame, both at home and abroad. 

Avoiding all efforts at a splendid flow of lan- 
guage, or to dress up his discourse in the flowery 
rhetoric of the day, but in good old homespun 
English he drove the truth into the hearts of his 
hearers, with a power and energy which I plainly 
«ould see was the main fulcrum on which his 
great reputation rested. 

The evening set in with every indication of a 
storm, so I remained indoors, and spent my time 
in meditating over the traits and characteristics 
of the people with whom I found myself sur- 
rounded. 

I must say that I am well and favorably im- 
pressed with the English; their reverence for God's 
holy day, throughout the length and the breadth 
of the land, struck me forcibly as compared with 
the observance of the dfiy in other countries 
through which I had just travelled. 

Very little rain fell although the sky looked so 
threatening, but I afterwards learnt from the 
daily papers that a severe storm, had passed over 
England and Scotland, causing immense destruc- 
tion of life and property. 

Monday I repaired to the ticket office, procured 
me a ticket for Glasgow, via Edinburgh. I left 
London, via the Midland Kail way, on Scot's fast 
express, and found myself dashing through old 



82 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



England at tlie rate of 70 miles per hour. I must 
confess the train travelled fast enough for me, as 
we went rattling and whizzing along, and although 
in an imported American Pullman Palace Car, I 
found it difficult to keep my seat. At length we 
came to a different set or style of fences and land- 



Bfe 



SCOTT'S MONUMENT, EDINBURGH. 

marks, which plainly indicated we had passed 
into another country, while the scenery became 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 83 



decidedly Scottish in its character. 9 p.m., found 
our fast express train puffing into the suburbs of 
Edinburgh, and it was not long before I found 
myself booked for the Hotel Royal, just opposite 
Sir Walter Scott's monument. Tired and weary 
with my days travel I retired, intent upon getting 
a good nights sleep, preparatory to my morning 
peraimbulations. 

Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, is situated 
on two ridges of hills within two miles of the 
Firth of Forth. 

Through its centre a deep wild and rocky rav- 
ine extends, dividing the city into the old and new 
town, and on the summit of a tremendous preci- 
pice stands 

EDINBURGH CASTLE. 

There watching high the least alarm 
Tby rough rude fortress gleams alar ; 
Like some bold vet'ran, gray in arms 
And marked with many a seamy scar ; 
Thy pond'rous wall and massy bar, 
Grim-rising o'er the rugged rock, 
Have oft withstood assailing war, 
And oft repelled the invader's shock. 

This castle teems with romantic interest, and 
the Crown Jewels are kept deposited here. The 
next point of interest is the remains of the Palace 
cf Holyrood. It was a magnificent building in 
former days ; the ancient residence of Scottish 
joyalty. The most interesting rooms in the pal- 
ace are those last occupied by the unfortunate 
Mary; and where her secretary Rizzio was mar- 
dred, the marks of his blood are still to be seen 
on the floor. 

Grayfriar's Church and churchyard is replete 
with interest. The Martyrs' Monument contains 
the following inscription: "From May 27, 1661, 
that the most noble Marquis of Argyle was be- 
headed, to the 17th of February, 1688, that Mr. 



84 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



James Renwick suffered, were one way or other 
murdered and destroyed for the same cause about 
18,000; of whom were executed at Edinburgh 
about one hundred of noblemen, gentlemen, 
ministers and others, noble martyrs for Jesus 
Christ." 

A ride through the Queen's Drive well repaid 
me, and beyond are Salisbury's Craigs. 

At 8 A. m. the following morning I took the fast 
express for Glasgow. 



^HH 




VIEW OF GLASGOW, SCOTLAND. 

The first and most prominent object which at- 
tracts our attention is the Cathedral, which I 
think ranks next to Westminster Abbey. It is 
situated in a most picturesque position, and in its 
church yard, which rises terrace above terrace in 
the back ground, is erected upon its highest 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 85 



elevation, placed on the top of a fine Doric col- 
umn, the statue of John Knox, the great Reformer, 
which looks down upon the dust of those who, 
laid forever in their narrow cell, sleep the sleep 
that knows no waking, till the trumpet of the 
ressurection morn shall rouse them from their 
lowly bed. 

St. George's Square at the terminus of the 
Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway, is the principal 
square in the city. It contains the monument of 
Sir Walter Scott, Sir John Moore, James Watt, 
Sir Robert Peel, and Lord Clyde. 

In the immediate vicinity of the Museum stands 
the Stewart Memorial Fountain, which com- 
memorates the introduction of Loch Katrine wa- 
ter into Glasgow. On the summit of the fountain 
there is a beautiful figure of " The Lady of the 
Lake. " 

Steam street cars are used to a great extent in 
this city, and in some of the principal thorough- 
fares entirely supersede the horse cars. 
-'At 2 P. m. I left Glasgow for Liverpool, travel- 
ing through a land which bespoke the thrift 
and prosperity of its people; passing several beau- 
tiful English lakes on my right, as we dash with 
lightning speed over the rails bound for the great 
commercial port of Liverpool. 

It is the second city in the kingdom, contains 
about 500,000 inhabitants, and noted for its ex- 
tensive docks, which are constructed on a most 
stupendous scale, covering, with the dry-docks, 
200 acres, with 15 miles of quays. In the square 
at the Exchange, is a monument of bronze in 
honor of Admiral Nelson, representing the dying 
hero receiving a naval crown of victory, and an 
enemy crushed and prostrate at his feet. The 
Derby Museum well repaid me for my visit, but 
my time was limited, being compelled to arrange 
the next day for my departure for America. 



86 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



The next day, Thursday Sept. 19th, at 2.10 p.m. 
found nie on board the steamship City of Rich- 
mond, [one of the finest as well as the largest 
steamers in the world. We had about 700 on board 
in all, among whom were two Japanese. From 
Liverpool to Queenstown the sea was very fine ; 
arriving at Queenstown, we were delayed five 
hours waiting for the mail, which I improved by 
going on shore to while away time on dry land, 
knowing well enough, that once my foot trod the 
deck, I should not have the pleasure of again 
being on terra firma for some time to come, 
which, though comparatively short, was to me. 
out on the broad expanse of ocean, long enough, 
I assure ^you. 

But time crept on, 4 o'clock arrived and all 
things being in readiness, the last tearful bene- 
diction pronounced from parting relatives and 
friends, and "all aboard" was the warning sig- 
nal. A few brief moments the bell in the engi- 
neer's room rang out, and the monster wheels 
slowly turning, swung the vessel from her moor- 
ings, and away we go, bound for 

" The land of the free, and the home of the brave." 

Saturday, September 21st, I awoke experiencing 
a certain squirmishness which gradually grew 
worse. A rough sea and strong head winds 
caused the vessel to tumble considerably, and 
with the exception of, perhaps, six persons, all on 
board where enjoying the privilege of being sea- 
sick. As for me, I kept my bed all day and 
could not eat a mouthful. 

Sunday came and went, but I was still too sick 
ta leave my berth. The Church of England ser- 
vice was held on board, but I contented myself 
by remaining in my berth, diverted my mind 
from things terrestrial to things celestial by 
reading one of Dr. Spurgeon's fine sermons, to- 
gether with selected passages from the Bible, 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 87 



antf. thus I worshipped God on the mighty deep, 
feeling that I was still preserved in the hollow of 
His hand and that His mercy still upheld me in all 
my wanderings through foreign lands. 

Monday, September 23d.. although cloudy, the 
sea was considerably smoother, and nearly all on 
board, including myself, had recovered from 
their sea-sickness, and were up on deck. The 
steamer was making good time, with a fine run- 
ning sea. The evening closed with sacred song, 
and the next day we experienced a rougher time 
of it, as a strong head wind was blowing, and the 
waves heaved and tossed our vessel considerably, 
bringing back the customary sea-sickness, which 
I was fortunate enough to be entirely free from 
on my trip out. 

" We'll have a rough night of it," says one of 
the sailors to me, which assurance was not very 
comforting, and I mentally braced myself up to 
the prospect before me. 

As the hours grew on, and darkness came 
brooding over the face of the deep, the wind 
rushed through the riggiug like the sighing of 
lost spirits, and the waves rose mountains high. 
Of a sudden I heard the bell signal for the en- 
gines to stop, and full of misgivings and dim 
forebodings I tumbled out of my berth, or rather 
I might say some monstrous wave performed the 
operation for me, as I found myself sprawling 
out on the floor, trying to hold on to some object 
of security as I groped my way along, meeting 
others in like predicament, all wanting to know 
what the matter was. 

"Don't be alarmed," cried a stalwart sailor, 
"this is a noble vessel, the best that ever rode the 
waves, and it is almost impossible to wreck her." 
Wiih this morsel of quieting assurance we 
waited patiently, all sleep banished and longing 
for the morning light. 



88 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



Three and a half long weary hours — they 
seemed an age to me, as we danced like a feather 
at the mercy of the sea, lashed into fury by the 
howling winds, which like so many infuriated 
demons whirled about our devoted ship as though 
bidding the angry billows engulph us in its deep, 
unfathomable depths. 

The morning broke at last, but very cold; 
strong headwinds still prevailed, we had drifted 
out of our course,and back towards the Irish coast, 
8 miles. The sea looked like snowbanks, with 
its myriad waves lashed into foam, while in the 
very fury of the elements I could see the good- 
ness and glory of God, whom I felt was with me 
through storm and sunshine. In the offing we 
discerned the steamer City of Berlin, bound for 
Liverpool. 

While sitting in the saloon of the steamer, after 
my severe sea-sickness, I was introduced to a 
charming young lady — Miss Maggie B. McDonald, 
of St. Louis, Mo., who, with her brother, was re- 
turning from an extended European tour. I 
found her a most intellectual conversationalist, 
and an agreeable young lady. 

Thursday, September 26th — On board the 
steamer just one week. 

The day is fine and clear, the sea is calm, and 
its long rolling billows smooth and unbroken, 
look so innocent and harmless, that a few short 
hours before were lashed into madness and fury. 
How gentle, and yet how treacherous, for a few 
brief hours and again, perhaps, they would be 
ready to swallow us up in some hidden maelstrom 
of destruction. We are making splendid time 
and are nearing the banks of Newfoundland, as it 
grows colder and colder. 

Friday, September 27th. — I had a splendid 
view of the sun as it peeped out of the east and 
lit up the wide and mighty ocean with its amber 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 



and gold, and the myriad waves far off in the 
eastern horizon glittered in golden scintillations, 
which grew in intensity as the God of day rose 
out of his watery palace, while thousands upon 
thousands of tiny waves, danced with delight 
beneath his bright and glorious beams. The 
birth of another day — another leaf in the great 
book of eterdity. 

At 10 rain set in, but cleared away by 4, and 
set in extremely cold, with heavy north west 
winds; at 8 o'clock we are making fine time and 
through a smooth sea, about 14 knots per hour. 

We had a fine concert in the evening, and took 
up a collection for the Yellow Fever sufferers. 
Result £20 10s. 8d. 

Saturday, Sept. 28, was clear but very cold, 
with northwest wind and heavy sea. We are 
making good speed; for the first time since quit- 
ting Liverpool, we had a chance to raise our sails. 
We are expecting to reach New York by to-mor- 
row 2 P. M. All well and hopeful. 

Sunday, Sept. 29. — "Land! Land!" these 
were the magic words that greeted my ears 
when I awoke, and sure enough upon look- 
ing out of the port hole, I could plainly dis- 
cern the shore of Long Island. All on board 
are happy, and one of our Japanese passen- 
gers kindly favors me with his card — Seigo Tam- 
agawa, Tokio, Japan. He was a Brigadier Gen- 
eral, sent by his government to the Paris Exposi- 
tion, and who also occupied the position of Min- 
ister Plenipotentiary to the United States. 

Asking the proud purser if he had a tag to place 
upon my luggage, he in a very rough way replied : 

" No, I have not." 

Which strongly contrasted with our captain, 
who was found to be a very polite and christian 
gentleman, knowing no distinction between rich 
or poor, with a pleasant smile and word for all. 



00 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



The pilot got on board about two o'clock in the 
morning, bringing us copies of the New York 
Herald, which were read with intense pleasure, 
although 3 days old. 

Descending to my berth to arrange for my de- 
parture, and looking out of the port hole I could 
see Coney Island and Manhattan Beach, which 
brought to my mind pleasant recollections of for- 
mer days. 

In the midst of all this bustle and confusion we 
do not forget that it is God's holy day, and all 
join in devotional service, and 
" Give God the praise, 
From whom all blessings flow." 

At 1 P. m. we pass Sandy Hook. Coming up 
the bay, we transferred our mail bags to a tug 
that came alongside, took on a physician, also 
Mr. England, publisher of the New York Sun, 
and my old friend Crockett, of the Grand Central 
Hotel. 

The first one to greet me on my stepping 
foot once more on land was my brother Mans- 
field, who, in company with my excellent finan- 
cial manager, Mr. and my worthy 

mailing clerk, were all delighted and happy to 
see me. Entering the carriage my friends had 
provided, in anticipation of my arrival, we drove 
rapidly up Broadway to the Grand Central Hotel, 
where I found a multitude of acquaintances and 
friends ready to receive me, and to congratulate 
me upon my safe arrival. At 7 P. M. I was called 
on by a distinguished New York piano maker, 
and was met by a hearty reception, and on my 
return to the hotel, found myself the recipient of 
a grand reception, and a profusion of floral testi- 
monials of regard from the ladies. 

It was quite late before the last of my friends 
withdrew, and tired out, I was not long, I assure 
you, in seeking my pillow. 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 91 



On glancing at the New York World the fol- 
lowing morning, I read the following notice : 
" Daniel F. Beatty, Esq., of Washington, N. J., 
returned yesterday by the steamer City of Rich- 
mond. H.e has spent the. entire summer in Eng- 
land, Germany, and France, placing agencies for 
the sale of his renowned Pianos and Organs. The 
demand for his instruments exceeds his anticipa- 
tions." 

The greater part of the day was spent in visit- 
ing my many business friends, and making 
preparations, after my brief respite, to engage 
once more in business pursuits. 

A telegraph from Washington, N. J. , was re- 
ceived : 

' ' Congratulations of the office force. Come at 
five. Manager." 

5 o'clock p. M. saw me in the parlor sleeping- 
car off for Washington, N. J. And as we glide 
swiftly over the rail of the D. L. & W. R. R. , 
the country never seemed to wear so cheering 
and bright a prospect, while each familiar scene 
seemed doubly dear to me after my sojourn in 
distant lands, and safe return to my native shore. 

At Hackettstown, 12 miles from Washington, 
the train comes to a stand, when a young man 
enters the car, and hands me the following tele- 
gram : 

" Washington, N. J. 
"Sept. 30th, 
" Hon. Daniel F. Beatty. 

" Brace up, get your right hand glove off; 
crowd immense." 

"W. L. andC. P. Huff." 

I must confess I got somewhat nervous, as the 
staff that accompanied me made no mention as 
to any reception. 



92 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



However I braced myself up, peeled off my 
right hand glove, and settled myself down like a 
willing victim to the slaughter. 

From Hacketstown to Washington^ the train 
skipped along lively, and it was not long before I 
heard the engineer blow his whistle to signal the 
switchman at his post, as it is here the Morris & 
Essex Division of the road ends, and the road di- 
verges from the track to Easton, and takes a 
curve to the northwest for Scranton, Bingham- 
ton and Oswego 

As the train slowed up to the depot, what was 
my astonishment at beholding a vast concourse of 
people. 

And my heart took up the joyful refrain of the 
Washington Brass Band, as it struck up 



" Home again, Home again, 
From a foreign shore." 



The whole city apparently had emptied itself 
of its people, and such a concourse of friends and 
happy faces it has never been my good fortune to 
see. 

The first to greet me was one of the little boys 
of our city, who knew me well, and had pressed 
forward amid the crowd, determined to be the 
first to grasp my hand ; then came Mr. 
followed by all the employees and citizens of the 
city. My father was waiting for me in a barouche 
and four which entering, a procession was form- 
ed from the dopot to the office, where upon enter- 
ing I found packed with another crowd, and best 
of all, the happy smiling faces of a bevy of little 
children. The Band of Hope dressed in white, 
and all drawn up in handsome style, whose happy 
cheerful voices rang out in songs of welcome. 
The parlors and offices were all brilliantly illu- 
minated in honor of the occasion, the celebration 
of which is graphically described in the Wash- 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 93 



ington, N. J. " Review," from the columns of 
which I clip the following: 

"Home Again — A Cordial Reception Ex- 
tended to Mr. Daniel F. Beatty upon his 
Return from Europe. — On Sunday afternoon, 
September 29th, at 3 o'clock, the steamer City of 
Richmond, from Liverpool, arrived in the har- 
bor of New York. Among her passengers was 
our townsman, Mr. Daniel F. Beatty, who, after 
a tour of several months through Europe, was 
on his way home. Mr. Beatty remained at one 
of the leading hotels in New York until Mon- 
day afternoon, when he left that city for homes 
arriving here at half-past seven o'clock. He wa, 
met at the railway station by a large number of 
our most prominent citizens, accompanied by the 
Washington Band. Immediately on his appear- 
ance on the platform, the band struck up a live- 
ly air, and the crowd pressed upon Mr. Beatty 
to take him by the hand. After a hand shake all 
around, the barouches in waiting were entered, 
and the procession, headed by the band, and an 
immense torchlight procession, moved down 
Washington Avenue to Beatty Building, which 
had been brilliantly illuminated in honor of the 
occasion. 

• " Previous to the starting of the procession from 
the railway station, the Band of Hope, number- 
ing about one hundred and fifty young people, 
marched from the M. E. Church to Beatty Build- 
ing, and with others, filled the spacious rooms 
on the second floor. Upon the arrival of the 
procession in front of the building, Mr. Beatty 
alighted from his carriage, and as he made his 
way, was greeted with the sweet strains of a 
'Welcome,' played upon the piano by Prof. Law- 
rence, leader of the orchestra at the Delaware 
Water Gap House. On entering the parlor he 



94 DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



was subjected to a rigorous hand-shaking, and 
welcomed home by an appropriate piece sang by 
the Band of Hope. Then Master Harry Dildine, 
son of Prof. W. M. Dildine, delivered the fol- 
lowing address on behalf of the Band of Hope : 

"'Mr. Beatty — Respected Sir :— Permit 
me, on behalf of the Band of Hope, to welcome 
you once more to your native land, and to your 
own home. Among the many who have shown 
themselves liberal in benevolent and religious 
enterprises in our city, no name is more highly 
appreciated by the Band of Hope than that of 
Daniel F. Beatty. One of your Golden Tongue 
Organs, which you presented to us before leav- 
ing this continent, has contributed very much to 
make our meetings interesting. Having received 
the organ while the City of Chester, upon which 
you were a passenger, was crossing the great At- 
lantic, this is the first opportunity we have had 
to express to you our thanks. Allow me to say 
that you have a place in our memory — we have 
missed you. Again I say, on behalf of the Band 
of Hope, that we welcome your return to Wash- 
ington.' 

' ' The address was suitably responded to, and 
then Miss Sallie Spangenberg stepped forward 
and presented Mr. Beatty with a beautiful bou- 
quet. The reception ceremonies being over, the 
members of the Band of Hope filed through the 
parlor, each one being taken by the hand by Mr. 
Beatty as they passed out. 

"The reception lasted until a late hour, the 
guests making themselves at home in the hand- 
somely furnished rooms devoted to the transac- 
tion of the Piano and Organ Business, for which 
the proprietor has established a world-wide repu- 
tation. 
V ' Mr. Beatty has cause to feel proud of his 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 95 



welcome home, for it was no doubt the largest 
demonstration ever made for a similar purpose in 
this town. And when it is considered that so 
little notice was given of the time and place of 
reception, it should be doubly gratifying to the 
recipient that so many of his friends were present 
to extent a welcome home. " 



The object of our mission would not be com- 
plete if we failed to present to our many readers 
the lessons these sights and scenes have taught, 
and from which we may draw a moral more forci- 
ble than any work that fiction could present. 

Comparing the political institutions of Amer- 
ica with continental Europe, we find ourselves 
more than ever attached to our own dear native 
land. 

The "divine right of kings" is merely upheld 
and perpetuated by the power held by the heredi- 
tary few, around whose thrones the bristling 
bayonets of millions stand as slaves, ready, as 
"food for powder," to obey the mandate of kings, 
whose highest ambition consists in watching with 
jealous eyes the slightest encroachment of sur- 
rounding nations upon the boundary lines which 
divide them, every inch of which has been the 
scene of long contested strife, rich with the blood 
of myriads who have died upon the field of so 
called glory, not in the name of " Liberty," but 
to bind their posterity in stronger chains, and to 
enable the few to live in regal splendor upon the 
toil of the impoverished masses, whose aspirations 
dare not look beyond the sphere of their own 
limited circle. 

Upon the monuments of imperial Europe are 
engraved imperishable lessons which the true 
statesman may well read and be admonished; to 
foster and develope the political institutions of 
our own native land, where the Godess of Liberty, 



96 DANIEL F. BEATTT'S 



enshrined in the hearts of her countrymen, points 
to the only true royalty, which springs from the 
will of the people, standing as the bulwark of 
the nation upon whose eternal foundations are 
written 

Truth, Justice and Liberty. 

And now dear reader, having accompanied me 
from the Blarney Stone of Old Ireland to Merrie 
England, from La Belle France to the sunny 
climes of Italy, and from the crater's mouth 
viewed the terror of Vesuvius, or the ancient 
ruins of Pompeii, thence down the picturesque 
Rhine, through Germany, and passing over the 
Alps of Switzerland gazed with me from the 
dizzy heights of hoary headed Mont Blanc, that 
like some grim sentry stands watch, century 
upon century, it is now time to remind my read- 
ers that, while hand in hand with me he has been 
enjoying, I trust, all the "sight seeing," I have 
on the other hand been busily engaged in pro 
jects calculated to extend my business to such 
an extent that the Beatty celebrated Piano and 
Organ shall be a household word as familiar amid 
the remote fastness of the Alps or the romantic 
highlands of Scotland as it is in our own dear 
native land. 

Wherever my footsteps have wandered, wheth- 
er in the crowded and fashionable salons of Eng- 
land, France or Germany, I found my name and 
the fame of my instruments had preceded me. 

It was no strange occurrence to find my Pianos 
among the elite of France, the nobility of Ger- 
many, or the ivy clad towers of ancient England, 
and, need I say, inspired with this prestige and 
renown, together with the confidence that my 
justly celebrated instruments have inspired 
among even the crowned heads of Europe, I de- 
termined more than ever to push their sale to 



TOUR IN FOREIGN LANDS. 97 



their utmost capacity. Already since my return 
have I began to feel the effects of r, f *' Travels 
through Foreign Lands;" already rni I in receipt 
of orders, which had it not been fov the persisten- 
cy with which I have pushed and introduced my 
instruments in continental Europe, some other 
enterprising foreign house might have reaped 
the benefit. My export trade has become ex- 
tremely large. 

And now dear reader I bid you adieu, should 
you at any time desire to see me or witness to 
your satisfaction the operations of my extensive 
business, remember that you are always cordially 
and at all times 

' ' Welcome" • 

to the parlors of the Beatty Building, and that 
every courtesy will be shown every one who con- 
templates a visit to the extensive Piano and Organ 
Establishment of Daniel F. Beatty, of Wash- 
ington, New Jersey, United States of America. 



THE end. 



The Beatty Piano ana Organ Factory, 

("From theN.Y. Scientific American.) 

"Th« view represents Mr. Beatty 's new factory, situated on 
Railroad Avenue, corner Beatty street, in the city of Washington, 
New Jersey. The small building in the foreground is the office 
belonging to the factory. The larger building is the new factory. 
The building seen some little distance behind the new factory is 
the Beatty Building, a spacious structure, containing in addition 
to the Beatty Music Hall proper, the office devoted to the extensive 
business connected with the piano and organ factory. 

We have chosen a few only of the departments of this concern, as 
space will not permit us to enter into all of the details of piano 
and organ manufacture. 

Everything in this factory is conducted on a perfect system. 
None but the best of workmen are employed, none but the best of 
materials are used, and the most modern machinery and appliances 
are adopted to facilitate the work and to render it not only cheaper 
but better. 

Mr. Beatty's offices are extensive and well appointed. It re- 
quires twenty or more assistants to attend to the details Of this 
immense business. The advertising bureau alone keeps a goodly 
number of persons constantly employed. 

The business, started but a few years ago by its proprietor with- 
out a dollar, has grown beyond all precedent, amounting at pre- 
sent to several millions of dollars a year. 

Mr. Beatty was lately elevated to the Mayoralty of Washington 
entirely without his own seeking. His fellow-citizens chose him. 
He conducted no campaign, and was not even present on election 
day, business having called him to New York on that day, and the 
news of his triumph was telegraphed to his headquarters at the 
Fifth Avenue Hotel. He bears his honors modestly, and his neigh- 
bors testify to his being the same genial, open-handed, free-hearted 
man as ever, not forgetting to relieve the unfortunate, to give freely 
to his church, nor deeming it beneath him to preside at Children's 
Day services in his own church. 

The Beatty piano and organ are everywhere known. Mayor 
Beatty's success has been rapid and complete, and he claims to 
possess to-day the largest manufactory of pianos and organs whioh 
sells directly to the people." 




ONLY 25 CENTS. 

OVER SIXTY 

Waltzes, JPolkas, Marches, Galops, Operatic Melodies, 
Dances, Etc. 

Beatty's Piano k Parlor Organ Instructor' 

Containing the elements of music with easy and progressive ever- 
cises to perfect the player in the art of music (either Piano or Organ) 
towhi^his added over Sixty Waltzes. Polkas, Marches, Galops, 
Operatic Melodies, Dances, etc., by Daniel P. Beatty; one of the 
best works of its kind ever introduced, and should be in the hands 
of every Piano and Organ player. Sent post paid to any part of 
the United States and Canada, for only Twenty-five Cents, th.0 
price having been reduced to introduce it everywhere. 

Address, 

©AMEL F. BEATTY, Washington, New Jersey. 



<+ 



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t 



PRICE TEN CENTS 



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++ BY -M- 



P>AWI]HIa V« BSULWWW t 
Washington, New Jersey. 



DANIEL K. BEA.TTY, Publisher, 

Corner of Kail Road Lvenueand Beatty Street, 

Washington, New Jersey, United States of America. 



►i^ 



1880 



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To circulate this little book I will 
give special rates to JVews Agents and 
those who desire to get up a large club. 

For full particulars, 

Address, 

DANIEL F. BEATTY, 

Publisher, 
Washington, New Jersey. 



DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 

CELEBRATED 

PIANOS anc ORGANS 

Read what is said of them, 

»7. i. Everitt, Esq., Cashier National Jiroadtvay Hank, 
Netv York City, writes: "Organ received. As I am fully satisfied 
with the instrument, I remit without further delay. I have not 
thought it necessary to call in experts to test it. All my family are 
delighted with it." 

(t. II. Ware, Cashier Merchants' National Batik, Water- 
ville, Maine, writes : " Piano proves satisfactory in every particular. 
I am no judge of musical instruments myself, hut several who are 
competent to j.ud£e have tried it, and say the tone is very fine." After 
a year's use. — " With prices equal, I would as soon take my chances 
with him, and with prices decidedly in his favor, I would take his in 
preference should I wish to purchase again. We like the Piano very 
much." 

II. II. Warner, Watertown, W. T.,writes: " 1 our Organ gives 
complete satisfaction. It cannot, in fact, be beat by any Organ of any 
make, containing the same number of reeds, for purity, sweetness and 
power of tone, or ease and rapidity of action. My daughters are high- 
ly delighted with it, and desire me to say that it is the best Organ they 
ever heard or saw, and that they would hot part with it for half a 
dozen Monopolist Organs, which are sold at such an enormous price." 

Win. M. DanieKs, South Alabama, N. Y., writes: "The Organ 
you shipped me I believe to be a better instrument for the money than 
ever was set up in Genesee County. Agents denounce your instru- 
ments, declaring them and you a humbug. The opposition, and dis- 
honest and false statements I encounter in trying to introduce your 
instruments, is simply astonishing. I had no idea that men, claiming 
to be honest dealers, could stoop to anything so low." 

Dr. E. If. Detchon, Cran-fordsrille, Ind.. writes: It has been 
\ about nine months since we received our beautiful Piano from you, 
and must acknowledge, in all candor, that we are perfectly delighted 
with it. In fact, we regard our 'Beatty' instrument superior in 
beauty of style and appearance to almost any instrument in the city 
which cost twice or three times as much as ours. For richness of 
tone, beauty, power, volume and sweetness of expression, there are 
very few instruments that come up to the 'Beatty' Piano. Your in- 
struments speak for themselves, and you will get more orders from 
this place." 

4®- Send for long list from all parts of the World .-«* 

Address, 

DANIEL F. BEATTY, 

Washington, New Jersey. 






DANIEL F. BEATTY'S 



CELEBRATED 



PIANOS and ORGAN 




NEW 

PIANOS, 

COVER, 
STOOL 

AND 
BOOK, 

Extremely 

LOW 
For Cash 



Square Grand Piano. 
lie f<t re you purchase a I' in no or Organ be sur 
send for my latest Circular's, &c. 

Address, 

DANIEL F. BEATTY, Washington, New Jers 



